Lotus Elan

Finally.....

PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed May 17, 2006 10:00 am

Finally, finally? I managed to buy myself a Plus 2!

It?s been fully restored around 14 years ago and has had very little use since (about 4k) and appears to have been off the road for the last 3 years. Looks fantastic, particularly the interior that was trimmed in black Connolly hide. Will post pics when I get around to taking some.

Now a question? I was leafing through the history last night and ended up scaring myself. The last owner was only covering on average around 500 miles per year but there is a bill from 1997 for work, which lists:

Check Valve clearances
Replace Timing chain
Free off seized distributor
Tune up and Carb balance

I?m a bit surprised it needed a new chain after 3-4k even if it was 7 years or so after it?s engine rebuild. I know the chain was replaced during the rebuild so why would it need a new one? And this seized dissy, what could have caused that and what would be the effect of it?s seizure?

I have panicked visions of it having broken the timing chain and bending valve etc, can anyone offer a less scary explanation please?

Also the replacement chain was of the split-link type; I?ve heard this is a no-no, should I worry about this too?

Thanks in advance

Robbie
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed May 17, 2006 10:37 am

Robbie693 wrote:Finally, finally? I managed to buy myself a Plus 2!
Now a question? I was leafing through the history last night and ended up scaring myself. The last owner was only covering on average around 500 miles per year but there is a bill from 1997 for work, which lists:

Check Valve clearances
Replace Timing chain
Free off seized distributor
Tune up and Carb balance

I?m a bit surprised it needed a new chain after 3-4k even if it was 7 years or so after it?s engine rebuild. I know the chain was replaced during the rebuild so why would it need a new one? And this seized dissy, what could have caused that and what would be the effect of it?s seizure?

I have panicked visions of it having broken the timing chain and bending valve etc, can anyone offer a less scary explanation please?

Also the replacement chain was of the split-link type; I?ve heard this is a no-no, should I worry about this too?

Robbie



Robbie,
Congratulations on getting a car,
I dont know why they would replace the chain unless the sprockets were worn/miss-aligned, I have used the split link many times with no probs (and raced/rallied with it) as long as its fitted the CORRECT way round I see no problems (dispite what some books say) and the horror stories I have heard.
The advance mechanism in the distributor probably siezed due to lack of use/lubrication and would cause poor performance.
Check the chain adjustment regularly and listen for noise's and enjoy the car.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed May 17, 2006 11:18 am

Thanks Brian, I feel better now :D

Got another one, possibly more tricky to diagnose from just words but, when travelling at around 45-55 mph I get a vibration from the back end. Not sure if it's sonic or mechanical but there is an invoice for a second hand stub axle which was fitted a few years ago. Could it be this or anything else?

It's fitted with a Peco silencer but I don't think it is this as I don't get the vibration when stationary.

Any ideas?

Thanks again
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed May 17, 2006 11:37 am

Hard to say what or where the vibration would come from, could be diff bearings or diff touching the chassis, exhaust touching,propshaft related,hub/wheel related.........think you will have to inspect and try to define the noise some more.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed May 17, 2006 11:41 am

Yeah, thought so, I need to have a look around.

Cheers
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Wed May 17, 2006 9:12 pm

I hate to be a wet blanket, but -
A car that was restored 14 years ago and has had almost no use and been off the road for the last three years must be treated as a restoration case.
You will find problems with almost everything and that is assuming the restoration was done properly 14 years ago.
On a brighter note, you have a great car and with some work it will become reliable and useable. My advice is to attack any problem immediately and properly and keep using it as any time in the garage just breeds more problems.
Just keep chucking the money at it until it is right!
If you keep using this forum you will have all the information you need to do the job.
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Wed May 17, 2006 10:42 pm

Chris,

Chuck money at a Lotus - NEVER! What are you thinking of?

Wait a minute ... On second thoughts, you are absolutely bang on. In actual fact, thinking on the last few months, I can't agree more!

Still prefer it to an MGB barge though.

You can forgive all the strife when you get the car back on the road and go round the first corner, :D .

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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Thu May 18, 2006 3:09 am

Congratulations on purchasing one of the best handling and performing classic sports cars for under no matter how many dollars.... As far as the vibration, +2's must be very susceptible to this, there are numerous previous discussions here pertaining to this topic. In my case it was the U joints which I replaced with rotoflexes. That or old tires could be the cause, rotate your wheels all around and see what happens. Flat spots telegraph throughout the supple driveline.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Thu May 18, 2006 8:55 am

1964 S1 wrote:Congratulations on purchasing one of the best handling and performing classic sports cars for under no matter how many dollars.... As far as the vibration, +2's must be very susceptible to this, there are numerous previous discussions here pertaining to this topic. In my case it was the U joints which I replaced with rotoflexes. That or old tires could be the cause, rotate your wheels all around and see what happens. Flat spots telegraph throughout the supple driveline.


Thanks I'll give it a try.

I know about the money pit syndrome, but it's so much better than my last one.

The fact that it has had so little use recently was a concern but, it does seem to be a very well put together example. I have spoken to the man who did the restoration and he seems to know his stuff (he's restored two others since including a 26R). The car looks and sounds very good, the only problems I have found so far are:

Clock, map light, interior/glovebox lights not working (suspected fuse)
Lockheed servo binding (I'll try the fix mentioned here)
Funny vibration thing
Oil cooler fitted (I think by the DPO, not the restorer)
Front brake squeal
Needs a good tune
Slight leak from top of the windscreen

So a few things to do but, hey - it's a Lotus!
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Thu May 18, 2006 11:48 am

It may not be a fuel problem that is preventing the clock from working. A lot of Keinzle clocks do this. I have an e-mail from a chap who replied to one of my posts on this subject. It gives instructions on how to fix the problem. I'll try and dig it out and post it here.

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu May 18, 2006 12:00 pm

Hamish Coutts wrote:It may not be a fuel problem that is preventing the clock from working. .Hamish.


Hmm! got to agree with you there Hamish as I have never seen a fuel (petrol) powered clock :shock: :lol: :lol:
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Thu May 18, 2006 1:26 pm

types26/36/74 wrote:
Hamish Coutts wrote:It may not be a fuel problem that is preventing the clock from working. .Hamish.


Hmm! got to agree with you there Hamish as I have never seen a fuel (petrol) powered clock :shock: :lol: :lol:


:lol: Fuel powered clock - now there's a new one!

Seriously Hamish, I'd be very interested to see that if you find it, thanks.

I suspected the fuse as, if I can tell correctly, the wiring diagram says all the bits not working are on the same fuse...?
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PostPost by: thor » Fri May 19, 2006 7:23 am

Unfortunately this is what I thought too, now my left window TRIES to open when the driver's door is open, when the driver's door is closed and i flick the window switch,... glove box light, courtesy light and a ticking clock ensues.... :shock: AARGH,.

Earth, earth, earth.. and earth are the answers I've got. Maybe that applies to my spot, fog and horns too....?? :lol:
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Fri May 19, 2006 8:11 am

Thor,

I know it sounds a bit repetitive but earths can cause some weird faults. :shock:
One of the best investments of your time would be to clean up all earth connections, they might look OK and even test OK but apply a bit of load and they could turn high resistance.
Remember these things have been lying around for 30+ years so have had plenty of time to corrode.
I even ran a another earth strap between the battery and the chassis to make sure the connection was as low resistance as possible. (I used a different chassis bolt than the original strap)

Regarding your fogs, horn etc. I had the same problem and found it was generally the electrical connections in the nose that were the problem. In my car they were bullet connectors and had been exposed to all weathers for years and were in a bit of a state. A bit of tidying up, renewing the connections and all was well. (the sun shone from the exhaust again :D )

Over the winter I fitted relays to operate the headlights, fogs and fan and ran new heavier wiring to them and to the lights. (I wanted to fit more powerful lamps to the headlights)
Now the sun not only shines from the exhaust, it also shines from the front of the car 8) .

Sorry Robbie. I haven't invented a new kind of clock - just brain fade. I may have to reline it! :)

Hamish.
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PostPost by: thor » Fri May 19, 2006 10:47 am

Now if I could just afford to employ a small chinese electrician, as trying to search for faults in the wiring under the dash, and disconnect/reconnect the earth connection there is not REALLY much fun in a tight garage space when I'm 6'2...... :?
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