2018: A Peterborough Odyssey

[pauljones]

Jon.

Congrats on the mission. Thats dedication for you. A damm long day but theres light at the end of it, will soon be summer.

Paul

[MarkDa]

Well done Jon!
Just a few more '10 minute' jobs and you'll be sorted.
I reckon that one bolt an hour isn't a bad rule of thumb for jobs.
Front shocker has fixing top and bottom so two hours to take out and replace.
Same for lotocones and diff mounts.
This way I'm not disappointed with progress.
Press on, the good weather's coming!

[john.p.clegg]

..and the diff rods are not "handed" but can be fitted the wrong way round , flats to the chassis,craters to the nuts..

John

[alan.barker]

Chamfered nuts with half locknuts
Alan

[JonB]

..and the diff rods are not "handed" but can be fitted the wrong way round , flats to the chassis,craters to the nuts..

John

He definitely said they were handed, explaining that there's a slight bend in each rod that points the bushed section in a particular direction. If they are the wrong way round (angled upwards rather than down), there is a risk of damage to the diff casing where the bushes are. Not sure what you are saying about wrong way round - front to rear? Impossible - the end fastenings are completely different - or do you mean the washers on the bushes (which are correct, I'm certain).

[MarkDa]

The crank in the rods is 'out' rather than up or down.
Here's a pic from TTR

TTR Diff Torque Rods

[alan.barker]

For me the Rods are handed sect "AA" n?9 A026 R 0007 and n?10 A026 R 0006
"Lotus Elan +2 Parts List" page AA.1
Alan

[JonB]

I'll inspect them and report back. It should be reasonably obvious if they are not exiting the holes in the diff square (assuming that's what is required).

@Mark, it's hard to tell if the crank is a single or compound curve from the photos. Take a look at the pictures in this post: lotus-gearbox-f37/overhauling-the-back-end-t40753-60.html#p289850

Looks like my threads are pointing towards the diff case.

[pharriso]

Definitely sided:

[john.p.clegg]

Looks like I'm wrong again..they do have different part numbers...


John

[JonB]

That looks pretty conclusive, Phil (reaches for the spanners again)...!

[Bigbaldybloke]

Glad you got it sorted and got back in one piece. I bet you?re cursing me for suggesting that transporter hire place.
So, is it time for chapter three now?

[JonB]

I bet you?re cursing me for suggesting that transporter hire place.

Nope. By the time I'd got the deposit back it ended up costing just ?125 plus ?90 of diesel. Compare that with the alternatives:

• Fit a towbar to the S-Max and hire a trailer: ~?1000 for the tow bar plus ?70 for the trailer and let's say ?90 for the diesel. Advantage: I get a tow bar. Disadvantage: I'm a grand down! Not sure about trailering a car safely, wear and tear to my S-Max.
• Use a transporter company: ?600 (?300 each way). Advantage: No need to take a day off work and spend it driving a van. Disadvantage: Cannot be there in person to discuss work / ask advice.

I should not have assumed the transporter was roadworthy, especially given the other symptoms of neglect it was showing. Ultimately a copper would charge me as I am the driver, so the legal responsibility is mine.

So, is it time for chapter three now?

Depends on what you think that entails, although I surmise it is the part where I pull the engine & box to look for oil leaks. I'm not ready for that just yet.. or are you referring to the shock absorbers?

[Bigbaldybloke]

I was thinking the dampers, surely the engine is a whole new book not just a chapter!

[JonB]

It doesn't need a rebuild - just head off, new timing chest gasket and head gasket set, plus (I suppose) a water pump overhaul (good form, apparently) and crankshaft seal; same for the gearbox.

Problem with taking the head off is "while I'm here I may as well [insert improbably expensive procedure here]".