Starting to tackle +2 resto....

[wotsisname]

Personally I wanted to keep fairly original, so ground and reglassed the flange and the inner shell.. having measured / marked the positions of the holes.
I have seen a variety of screws used..... I used cheese/slot. cap/socket could look good.. I ground the edge of washers that were a little large so that it hopefully lasts.

[danbuoy1]

Thanks for reply Wotsiisname. That makes sense, I guess the bolt holes at bottom of cill on the flange should be relatively tight, almost reamed hence question, I'm guessing you reinforced the whole area as well - inside?

The cills came with bolts so I'll reuse those for now, just want to get some strength back in it before next steps.

The fibreglass under the big metal plates (what was left of them) is distorted, presuming this is no consequence and will flatten out when tightened.

Learning anew, so used to mig welder

Cheers

Paul

[danbuoy1]

Sorry to keep on this.

The outer flange is distorted where the old cill rust has bowed it out between the bolts, not tried this before but can i heat it up and flatten, other ideas? Also do you put seam sealer between the flanges/body/cills to give some weatherproofing?

Not looking to finish off yet, just want to get the strength back in before lifting body.

Cheers

Paul

[pudge2260]

Have removed the rust and remainder of what was once the side sills. Are you able to slide in the new sills into place without disassembling and lowering the the rear brake assembly?

[danbuoy1]

Hi Pudge2260, thanks for adding - yes its all been cleaned out, I've trial fiited a Spyder cill (only just slides in past rear wheel asy) but having problems with getting the interior bolts tightened as slight bow, looking to get another cill. I haven't looked at flattening lower body flange yet - was thinking of putting screws in with washer spacer then midly heating up?

Cheers

Paul