Dundonian JPS

PostPost by: Robbie693 » Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:03 am

Perfect thanks Innes - how could these things be too in depth?! :D

Interesting they have both commissioned runs of the stuff from different (I assume) suppliers. Also that they didn't try to replicate the original it appears, although I think the higher polish/chrome effect is an improvement.

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 31, 2013 9:20 pm

innesw wrote:
Think I can start to see light at the end of the tunnel! Alex, hopefully finished for this summer, any local shows in Angus/Fife you enjoy?

Innes


Glamis castle event is very good with a great selection of cars.Just up the road from you too. The Club Lotus NE mob normally attend and are actively taking bookings as we speak. They use the Travel Inn just off the kingsway for accom' and socialising on the Sat' night.. Great fun...They are a good bunch.

I try and attend the Fife event at lathalmond (near Knockhill) bus museum in June too. Usually on my own. I take the car and a scoot (or two). The car won second place 1st time there and the same at Glamis.... I always drive the car to the events. Even le mans and silverstone and it has done nearly 10k mls with (Says he grabbing a large handful of wood for luck) Nil problems at all... Just finishing servicing it now for the summer season.. It does not go out in salty Road conditions under any circumstances.

You can google for any info' and dates. Glamis is mid July.

The car is looking just great Buddy.... :wink: I hope to see it at some of the CL activities up and down the country.

Alex.. 8)
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PostPost by: innesw » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:31 pm

Think I already have a photo of your car then from last year at Glamis Alex!
Unfortunately the penny only just dropped after I read your last comment :idea:

2012-07-08 12.26.50.jpg and


Also had a good chat with the CL NE Scotland guys, a couple were also at the Tayside Classic Car show at Eroll also, need to get round to filling out a subscription form, lazy.

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PostPost by: innesw » Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:55 pm

Reached a pretty big milestone today, drove the car it's first 10 metres under it's own power today.
(Reversed it out the garage, a couple metres down the driveway and back into the garage).

Boy getting it in to reverse was funny, selected 4th gear about 10 times before pushing it sideways enough (strong spring!) to get it into reverse.
Headlights fully working, pop-up and down! 8)

Smiling ear to ear this evening. :D

A few small jobs here and there (front number grill, fix badges .etc) and some tweaking here and there (front suspension ride height) and then Insure for the road, MOT and TAX once the roads and the weather get a bit nicer in a month or so.

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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Mon Feb 04, 2013 10:08 am

Excellent :D Congratulations Innes.

Hoping for some evocative shots in the Scottish countryside soon!

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PostPost by: innesw » Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:39 pm

Considering this thread is in the gallery section, here's some more eye candy for the week.

IMG_4570.JPG and


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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:45 pm

Innes you have a PM ....

Thanks.

Alex B....
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PostPost by: innesw » Fri Mar 01, 2013 1:45 am

Update -

Aftermarket fabricated exhaust systems are a bother! (and learnt a bit on sealing exhausts). Just taken off my TTR "fast road" spec exhaust as leaking pretty much everywhere.

After speaking with my engine builder and discussing how much bother they are I found out that they find generally speaking most performance fabricated manifolds do not have flat mating flanges and are a pain to seal. The manifold also has to be flexed to fit it on the studs. (Phoned up TTR, "normal, natural variation between lotus hand built engines" - fair enough I thought).

Now sealed with a very high temp (350.C continuous) RTV silicone with copper, either side of gasket material. Good for sealing exhausts as recommended by my engine builder. Assembled manifold again with lots of swearing and difficulty, let the RTV set for 24hrs then nip up the nuts to get a good seal.

Initially I used holts firegum on the pipe joins not manifold and then realised how terrible a material it is. Initially good as it expands to seal up gaps but Rubbish as with any form of vibration or moisture the material disintegrates.

Now using "Mikalor" style pipe clamps due to the almost zero clearance between the exhaust and the 5 speed box, not enough torque available on heavy duty "jubilee" style pipe clamp.

At least the car sounds much much much better now.

Next job, after a little engine running, oil leaking from sump gasket. Need to be careful not to damage gasket on this one apparently, easy to split it or overly crush it.

More photo's to follow soon.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:04 am

The bolt locations for the manifold on the twin cam head is pretty consistent even if the ports move a little compared to the bolts, it had to be that way to match the original cast manifold holes for mounting. Fabricated exhaust manifolds have variation due to distortion as they are welded and normally they need a little fettling to bend the individal cylinder pipes or slot the holes to get them to fit and line up with the ports and locating studs / bolts precisely.

Use of high temp silicone sealant is good on the exhaust to head join as this runs relatively cool with the cylinder head water cooling. Look at an engine on the dyno and the pipes glow red hot and much to hot for silicone but only about after 30mm from where they join the head. Dont use it on the next couple of joins in the Y piece down to the main tail pipe as these typically run to hot for silicone and it burns out rapidly ( been there done that). The last join at the rear for the muffler is normally cool enough for high temp silicone again.


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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:29 am

"normal, natural variation between lotus hand built engines"
My arse! He didn't tell you that before he sold you the item. Flat is flat, excuses are excuses.

Car is looking brilliant- look forward to seeing somewhere this year. :D
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:58 am

elansprint71 wrote:"normal, natural variation between lotus hand built engines"
My arse! He didn't tell you that before he sold you the item. Flat is flat, excuses are excuses.

Car is looking brilliant- look forward to seeing somewhere this year. :D


My sentiments exactly - surely he (TT) mean't normal, natural variation between 3rd party hand built parts?

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PostPost by: DeanG » Sat Mar 02, 2013 6:21 pm

Bolted a tubular exhaust up to my Elan in 1982. No issues, no sealant.
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PostPost by: innesw » Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:48 pm

rgh0 wrote:The bolt locations for the manifold on the twin cam head is pretty consistent even if the ports move a little compared to the bolts, it had to be that way to match the original cast manifold holes for mounting. Fabricated exhaust manifolds have variation due to distortion as they are welded and normally they need a little fettling to bend the individal cylinder pipes or slot the holes to get them to fit and line up with the ports and locating studs / bolts precisely.

Use of high temp silicone sealant is good on the exhaust to head join as this runs relatively cool with the cylinder head water cooling. Look at an engine on the dyno and the pipes glow red hot and much to hot for silicone but only about after 30mm from where they join the head. Dont use it on the next couple of joins in the Y piece down to the main tail pipe as these typically run to hot for silicone and it burns out rapidly ( been there done that). The last join at the rear for the muffler is normally cool enough for high temp silicone again.


cheers
Rohan


Yeah only used the silicone on the manifold flanges. Used some shims and a clamp for pipe joins on the other sections of the exhaust and so far is air tight.

DeanG wrote:Bolted a tubular exhaust up to my Elan in 1982. No issues, no sealant.


Maybe better build quality in the 80's?

Horns now work after I added a jumper wire across the steering flexible joint.
Next job is checking the reverse light switch works, getting closer and closer for an MOT.


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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:43 am

Innes,
Not much good to you now as you seem to have your manifold leaks sorted out.
I have measured some spare manifold gaskets, as supplied for the twincam, at 1.1mm to 1.4mm depending on whom you buy them from. These gaskets have virtually no "give" in them and certainly would not allow for any irregularities in manifold flanges. However, manifold gaskets for 1600cc VW beetle, aircooled engines fit exactly. These are approx' 2.8mm thick, are comprised of three layers and have a crush ring in both sides. I fitted these on my Elan when fitting my, ill fitting, manifold and they are leak free three years later. I used no sealant.
Regards,
Colin.
P.S. Cost down here from an independant VW restorer? $2.50 each.


Yeah only used the silicone on the manifold flanges. Used some shims and a clamp for pipe joins on the other sections of the exhaust and so far is air tight.

DeanG wrote:Bolted a tubular exhaust up to my Elan in 1982. No issues, no sealant.


Maybe better build quality in the 80's?

Horns now work after I added a jumper wire across the steering flexible joint.
Next job is checking the reverse light switch works, getting closer and closer for an MOT.


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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Mon Mar 04, 2013 12:43 am

innesw wrote:Yeah only used the silicone on the manifold flanges. Used some shims and a clamp for pipe joins on the other sections of the exhaust and so far is air tight.

Innes

Hi Innes, can you explain what you mean by shims with the clamps?

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