Removing CV joints from stub axles

[Harvey]

I have looked at many posts about fitting and removing CV joints but I haven't found one that specifically addresses how one removes CV joints in order to simply separate the joint from the brake rotor and stub axle. I want to remove my struts from the car to perform some work on them and want to do the minimum amount of work to free them from the rotor and CV joint.

I've removed the three nylocs that secure the CV adaptor plates and rotors from the stub axle but have not yet removed the six cap head screws at either the diff end or at the stub axle end of the CV joint. I want to disturb the internals of the CV joints as little as possible so as not to risk either contaminating them or releasing the ball bearings.

Put as succinctly as possible, is it possible to release the CV joint from the rotor and stub axle simply by removing the six cap head screws on the outer end of the CV joint or do I have to remove the cap head screws at both ends? If the latter, does it matter which end is removed first?

Lee

[h20hamelan]

Where the three 2inch+ bolts go in, should be the matting surfaces from C/V to shaft?
Not the small screws holding the boots.

[gjz30075]

You should be able to remove the three bolts through the path that is between the shock tower
and the brake caliper mount. If the bolts are hex head, the 'pathway' could be very tight. I had
to relieve some material in that area in order for a hex head to pass through. An allen headed
cap bolt should come out easier. There shouldn't be a need to remove the CV from the adapter (usually).

[Harvey]

Thanks Greg and h20hamelan! I am relieved I don't have to open up the CV joint by removing the six cap head screws. I will pursue removing the three bolts (allen headed) through the pathway suggested..

Lee

[Harvey]

As it turned out I did need to remove five or the six cap head screws holding the outer CV joint to the adaptor plate so that I could pivot the joint around the plate thus allowing access to the heads of the three bolts which are otherwise partially blocked by the joint. The three bolts were driven into the brake rotor so tightly that it took a releasing spray and application of a propane torch to the brake rotor to drift them out. I need to open up the rotor holes slightly to make this job easier next time. Job done!

Lee

[alan.barker]

Sounds like they are MM Cvs. Heard bad things like this before. Better only to remove Caphead Screws. Best to leave the 3 Studs that have been forced into place alone.
When refitting Capheads clean the threads and use Loctite Primer then Loctite 20 Nm torque.
Alan

[rgh0]

All CVs that use the orginal Lotus drive shafts can have a problem with the fit of the three bolts into the drive shaft arms. Lotus appears to have been loose with the tolerances on these arms as the Donuts would accomodate any variation. The outers are more liable to problems as the bolts have to also go through the brake disks. The CV adapter cannot as easily accomodate the variation in the drive shaft arm hole PCD hence the challenge with tight bolts.

cheers
Rohan

[alan.barker]

Hi Rohan,
I think this is also why the design difference with the Elantrikbits CVDS. Which allow for some tolerance difference. No forcing into place or hammering if dismantling is needed.
Alan

[skelteanema]

A question on lubricating the CV joints. I have Col's Elantrikbits ones that I fitted during Covid lockdown. They have grease nipples fitted. How often do these need to be lubricated and what is the recommended lubricant?

Thanks

[alan.barker]

I had all info sent with my CVDS from Col.
Alan