Jacking +2 with Spyder chassis

[rdssdi]

I am jacking up my +2 with a Spyder chassis. The front was easy. I used a jack with a block of wood to raise it at the tow loop. Placed padded jack stands (for finish protection) at each end of the main front crossmember. Very secure.

I am looking at a safe and secure method to jack up the rear and where to place the jack stands. I need it quite stable as I will have a person in the drivers seat while I bleed the brakes. I am also considering leaving it elevated for the remainder of the winter.

Cloistered for COVID. With underlying issues COVID would be a death sentence. Great time to work on my Lotus, TVR and Jag MK2.
All suggestions appreciated. Photos if possible. Thanks. Bob

[JonB]

Like this:

https://lotuselan.net/lel/52181/0/img_4298.jpg

I drive the front of the car up a ramp, place the hardwood beam under the sill and jack the rear end and install axle stands. Then raise front, possibly with an additional block, and add the front stands. The wooden beams are placed just behind the seam at the bottom of the sill.

Trick here is to spread the load. I did this many times on my Plus 2 with no issues.

[rdssdi]

Thank you.

I will use a piece of wood to raise the rear.

[alan.barker]

First question does the +2 have Doughnuts or CV drive Shafts as this makes a very big difference
Hi JonB,
i think you had fitted CVs to your +2S 130/5.
Alan

[rdssdi]

I had success by using a piece of lumber placed along the sill. No cracking noises. I then placed a jack stand supporting the rear upright. Repeated for other side.

I have the Spyder 1 CV 1 doughnut.

Will bleed brakes today. Around 7 inches of snow so far. May be as much as 12. The wonders of a heated shop.

[stugilmour]

Bob, to raise the rear of the car I have a couple of 3/4” plywood pieces cut to the rear wishbone shape. There is a slot for the brake disc to fit through. I have attached a couple of blocks to accept a floor jack for each side. Goes up and down easily. I find this easier and more stable than trying to place a U shaped block around the exhaust and catch the frame at the back.

If leaving the car for the winter I usually lower it on to blocks. The blocks are made out of three wide 2x6 to form decking top and bottom. I have used 2x4, 2x6, or 2x8 for the block sides to give several heights. Takes any stress off of stuff but able to get under the car to fiddle. The top deck includes two 2x2 cleats so nothing rolls off the block. With the car blocked it is easy to raise a corner or end with the floor jacks if I need to take stuff off the wheels, etc.

HTH