2 Post Lift - raising a Plus 2

PostPost by: jono » Tue Jan 03, 2017 7:49 pm

I know the question of 2 post lifts has been the subject of previous threads but I'm looking for some first hand experience on this specific question.

I've purchased a 2 post lift for my Christmas pressie and installed it over the Christmas period - just need to complete the wiring now and I'm ready to fire it up.

Simple question for those who already have one and, more specifically, use it to lift their Plus 2.

It's an obvious one but where do you position the lift pads? I intend to make some spreaders out of 19mm ply faced with closed cell foam and position then fore and aft just inboard of the cills. It's clear that the chassis will 'hang' off the body which feels kind of 'wrong' but I understand it will take it.

My other thought is to make two lateral spreader beams in timber, say 6 x 2, which will also bridge and pick up part of the chassis spine. I will make it work so no comments along the lines of 'why did you not buy a 4 post' please :D

So really just wanting to compare notes with folk who use a 2 post to lift and Plus 2 and any useful hints and tips.

Cheers

Jon

PS: the garage was built with an 8" RC slab on 200mm Type 1 GSB and the anchor bolts are in good and tight before you any of you start!
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PostPost by: Bill » Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:17 pm

Jon

My S1 is up on my 2 post Max JAX RIGHT NOW.

LIFT AT THE SILL ENDS ADJACENT WHEEL ARCHES - NO SWEAT.

Bill
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PostPost by: mbell » Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:35 pm

I don't have a 2 post lift but a "QuickJack" which presents a similar problem.

What I have done is make rail out of 2x 2"x4" with foam spreader, these are close to the length of the sills on the car and mount firmly into the lift. When lifting I place these to pickup the lower front wheel arch edge and the narrow section at the rear as these area seem to be strong area of the shell.

You can see a photo at:
tool-talk-f43/scissor-lifts-t35489.html#p242320

So far I've had no issue, no funny noises and have left it up for quite a few days at a time.

My car does have some noticeable dents in the area you normally but the two post arms if your were very familiar with +2's. So I'd suggest you do do some kind of spreader.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: shaun » Tue Jan 03, 2017 10:26 pm

I lifted upon all four corners of the body no problem
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PostPost by: TeeJay » Tue Jan 03, 2017 11:11 pm

Hi Jon.

Like Bill I have a MaxJax 2 Post Lift.

It has large square rubber pads and I position these just inboard off the sills, close to the manual lifting points in the sills. So they are at each corner of the floor pan.

The photo shows the body in position ready to be bolted to the rolling chassis.

I use the same positions to regularly lift the assembled car, with no problems. :D
I should point out that I had previously fitted new reinforcing members inside the sills, as the original one were just a pile of rusted metal. So a strong structural car.

If I am working underneath the car, I try to avoid leaving the suspensions hanging for too long, by lower the car each evening. If a wheel is removed, lowering that suspension onto suitable supports.

maxjax-body.jpg and


I must say the lift has made it much easier for my aging body. :D :D
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PostPost by: jono » Wed Jan 04, 2017 8:55 am

Many thanks chaps - very helpful and reassuring comments.

A side benefit is that I can now park another car above the Elan but I'm really looking forward to working on the Lotus now.

Cheers

Jon
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PostPost by: Mazzini » Wed Jan 04, 2017 12:44 pm

Everybody else is posting pictures of airborne shells so I thought I would too :-)

By the way I did see David, he sends his regards and says he has some very good memories of your father.
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PostPost by: greg40green » Wed Jan 04, 2017 12:55 pm

What is the cost a maxjax 2 post lift , what is the minimal width and height of garage I need to fit one in ?
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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed Jan 04, 2017 1:42 pm

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PostPost by: Bill » Wed Jan 04, 2017 9:33 pm

About $2,300 Canadian. The advantage is - bolt it down, plug in the hoses and power and away you go!!

And you can take it with you if you move. Also , your Elan will fit in an 8ft. ceiling.

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PostPost by: pharriso » Wed Jan 04, 2017 10:21 pm

Here is my car on Bill's maxjax:
elancollection_britishcolumbia_2013_04_26_040sm.jpg and
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PostPost by: mds4544 » Tue Feb 21, 2017 11:12 pm

Spyder Cars use two posts lifting on the ends of the sills with out any issues. They lifted mine with someone in it (to diagnose a transmission noise) and it was just fine.

Sorry I haven't got a pic :)
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PostPost by: Certified Lotus » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:10 am

I've used my two post lift extensively to rebuild my S1, S4 and Europa twin cam. Sorry, no experience with a plus 2. ;-)

Here is a photo of lifting my S1, S4, Europa and another of the larger pads I made for the lift points.
img_1585.jpg and

img_1425.jpg and

img_2888.jpg and

img_3482.jpg and
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:17 pm

I have put Maxjax on my list for the new man cave. Looks like good old EBay will do the shipping from the USA approximately ?1900 GB POUNDS

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TWO-POST-AUTO ... 0382533227

I had been looking at mid rise scissor lifts, but these look better.

On topic, just lift at the ends of the sills next to the wheel arches as per all the helpful photos from others :)
Kindest regards

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