Heat problem
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Hello
I'm the proud owner of a 73 +2S 130/5 for several years now. This winter I had the engine rebuilt and ever since i've noticed that the temperature gauge is constantly very high (between 90?-110?) whetter I'm driving or at a full stop.
It's could be a radiator problem, but before rebuild it I would appreciate any advice you may be able to provide. Is it a inherent problem whit the + 2 I never noticed
tanck you in advance for your consideration
Jerome
I'm the proud owner of a 73 +2S 130/5 for several years now. This winter I had the engine rebuilt and ever since i've noticed that the temperature gauge is constantly very high (between 90?-110?) whetter I'm driving or at a full stop.
It's could be a radiator problem, but before rebuild it I would appreciate any advice you may be able to provide. Is it a inherent problem whit the + 2 I never noticed
tanck you in advance for your consideration
Jerome
- trarker
- First Gear
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 13 Apr 2004
Depends what rad you have. If its one of the later square ones (should be on a 73) with the bolted on flanges then it's a bit pants. What you need is one of the earlier rectangular full width rads, recored. Or if you've got the cash splash out on an alloy full width jobbie TTR do them or there's a chap on ebay knocking them out at the moment.
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Madbury - First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Apr 2004
I had an high speed overheating problem on my +2, also with the radiator with the flanges each side. This rad was originally used on the triumph spitfire, so it was a bit low on capacity.
I solved my problem by having this rad re-cored, with 3 rows instead of 2, and with the tubes spaced closer together at 10mm intervals. This cost me ?120.
Now the temperature gauge stays at 85 degrees whatever I get up to!
Dave Chapman.
I solved my problem by having this rad re-cored, with 3 rows instead of 2, and with the tubes spaced closer together at 10mm intervals. This cost me ?120.
Now the temperature gauge stays at 85 degrees whatever I get up to!
Dave Chapman.
- david.g.chapman
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 780
- Joined: 26 Nov 2003
Dont just assume its the radiator if it was O.K. before the rebuild, before you start on the cooling system make sure the gauge is reading correctly, electrical gauges/stabilizer can give inaccurate readings, also check the electric fan is blowing through the radiator and not sucking.
Brian
Brian
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
True ! Make sure your know the real water-temp before you start a big operation. One of those temp-meters you push into the steak in the owen does the trick ,( - and my wife never found out........ ) Then check the termostat, before opening your wallet......
Rgds Dag
Rgds Dag
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Dag-Henning - Third Gear
- Posts: 330
- Joined: 30 Sep 2004
Hi,
somes news from my week end...
The fan is blowing... the gauge seems to be right...
The temperature was right as lons as I was driving..but at each stop the temp? increased...
I'm afraid, i'm going to replace my rad, it's a small one. Alloy rad (radiator expert) seems to be the right part but is too expensive for the moment...
small rad comes from triumph spitfire . the large one comes it from a Triumph reference?
J?r?me
somes news from my week end...
The fan is blowing... the gauge seems to be right...
The temperature was right as lons as I was driving..but at each stop the temp? increased...
I'm afraid, i'm going to replace my rad, it's a small one. Alloy rad (radiator expert) seems to be the right part but is too expensive for the moment...
small rad comes from triumph spitfire . the large one comes it from a Triumph reference?
J?r?me
Last edited by trarker on Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- trarker
- First Gear
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 13 Apr 2004
I'd give the cooling system a good flush out before replacing anything and then check the following.
Is the fan really blowing into the engine bay?
Is it rotating the right way and at a fast speed?
Has the right thermostat being fitted and does it work?
Are you sure your engine has not being built a bit tight?
What is the oil temp?
These cars have run for years on the original rads both large and small. They might be marginal for hot climates, competition or in heavy traffic but every where else they are more than sufficent.
Does the +2 have the baffle/blanking plate round the steering rack like the Elans have to direct air into the radiator?
Is the fan really blowing into the engine bay?
Is it rotating the right way and at a fast speed?
Has the right thermostat being fitted and does it work?
Are you sure your engine has not being built a bit tight?
What is the oil temp?
These cars have run for years on the original rads both large and small. They might be marginal for hot climates, competition or in heavy traffic but every where else they are more than sufficent.
Does the +2 have the baffle/blanking plate round the steering rack like the Elans have to direct air into the radiator?
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M100 - Third Gear
- Posts: 450
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
J?r?me,
I had a similar problem with my +2. The rad repair man said the core of my radiator was from a Triumph Herald 1200. Not really suitable for a twink!
We agreed to upgrade the core, using the original header and footer[?] tanks, so that I didn't need to modify the radiator mounts etc. The new core was for a Triumph 2.5 pi so we thought it would do the job.
New core looks great and all is in place. It's still two rows but the vertical tubes are much closer together, so there are lots more of them. It is fine in the normal British summer but I wouldn't like to use it in say, France on a hot sunny day, in traffic.
With the benefit of hindsight I would have used a more efficient core (if one could be had) or a larger radiator and taken the hit of modifying the rad mountings. On a hot day here, i.e. 26deg C (well, that's hot for here) the fan was cutting in just sitting for a few minutes at traffic lights. I have an 82deg C thermostat fitted.
I have also just rebuilt the engine with a new water pump etc., overhauled the fan and put un 'forlife' coolant, so everything should be at its optimum.
Hope this helps,
Hamish.
I had a similar problem with my +2. The rad repair man said the core of my radiator was from a Triumph Herald 1200. Not really suitable for a twink!
We agreed to upgrade the core, using the original header and footer[?] tanks, so that I didn't need to modify the radiator mounts etc. The new core was for a Triumph 2.5 pi so we thought it would do the job.
New core looks great and all is in place. It's still two rows but the vertical tubes are much closer together, so there are lots more of them. It is fine in the normal British summer but I wouldn't like to use it in say, France on a hot sunny day, in traffic.
With the benefit of hindsight I would have used a more efficient core (if one could be had) or a larger radiator and taken the hit of modifying the rad mountings. On a hot day here, i.e. 26deg C (well, that's hot for here) the fan was cutting in just sitting for a few minutes at traffic lights. I have an 82deg C thermostat fitted.
I have also just rebuilt the engine with a new water pump etc., overhauled the fan and put un 'forlife' coolant, so everything should be at its optimum.
Hope this helps,
Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
- Posts: 498
- Joined: 29 Jun 2004
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