STRANGE eectrics...!?
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Hm, took the door panels off to fit mirrors tonight, and thought to lubricate the nearside window motor to maybe coax it into working properly. Then...
Normally the window is V E R Y slow, not even starting to go down without help the first 3rd of the way. now: Nothing.. couple of wires hanging out of the left side of the dash underside, popped them back. The non-working clock started ticking! Then, when I pressed the nearside window switch, the LIGHT in the glove compartment came on, together with the offside courtesy light"! !!! with the drivers door open, the nearside window tries to crawl down, as soon as the door is closed, ticking clock+glove compartment light/courtesy light on....
WHAT ???? Unfortunately I'm C R A P at electrics, can someone give me a clue here?
Normally the window is V E R Y slow, not even starting to go down without help the first 3rd of the way. now: Nothing.. couple of wires hanging out of the left side of the dash underside, popped them back. The non-working clock started ticking! Then, when I pressed the nearside window switch, the LIGHT in the glove compartment came on, together with the offside courtesy light"! !!! with the drivers door open, the nearside window tries to crawl down, as soon as the door is closed, ticking clock+glove compartment light/courtesy light on....
WHAT ???? Unfortunately I'm C R A P at electrics, can someone give me a clue here?
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Thor,
Check all the electrical contacts. ESPECIALY the eaths. Earths are very inportant. Any dampness and corrosion can cause resistance problems. That sounds like what you've got. Just take things apart, clean them and put them back together with a bit of white grease. Should make a big difference.
Regards,
Hamish.
PS It may also be advisable to get some liquid silicone spray and apply some to the window runners.
Check all the electrical contacts. ESPECIALY the eaths. Earths are very inportant. Any dampness and corrosion can cause resistance problems. That sounds like what you've got. Just take things apart, clean them and put them back together with a bit of white grease. Should make a big difference.
Regards,
Hamish.
PS It may also be advisable to get some liquid silicone spray and apply some to the window runners.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
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Hamish, the earths under the dash are where? and do I have to dismantle the vinyl panels underneath?
Just finished with the very scary moment of drilling holes in the doors for Cromadora mirrors.. visions of the drill slipping on the curved surface fortunately didn't materialise...
Just finished with the very scary moment of drilling holes in the doors for Cromadora mirrors.. visions of the drill slipping on the curved surface fortunately didn't materialise...
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Thor,
The problem is with the earth. I think we may have covered this before. I bet the light in the door ashtray is coming on as well. If you try the search facility all will be revealed.
Chris
The problem is with the earth. I think we may have covered this before. I bet the light in the door ashtray is coming on as well. If you try the search facility all will be revealed.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
OKey, good. Will try this. Will WD40 or copper grease be just as good as white grease when reassembling the contacts on the earths?
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
If anything a little copper grease, but I would assemble first, then put a thin coat of grease on it.
WD40 isn't good for electrics as it's silicon based, this will create problems in the long run. The best bet for electrics is fine sandpaper untill you have clean metal and for switch contacts, use a proprietary contact cleaner. This is usually a very light oil and cleaning agent mixed.
The other thing I have done in my +2 is run a 25mmsq seperate earth cable between the main earth points and the battery.
Niall
WD40 isn't good for electrics as it's silicon based, this will create problems in the long run. The best bet for electrics is fine sandpaper untill you have clean metal and for switch contacts, use a proprietary contact cleaner. This is usually a very light oil and cleaning agent mixed.
The other thing I have done in my +2 is run a 25mmsq seperate earth cable between the main earth points and the battery.
Niall
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niallf - Second Gear
- Posts: 178
- Joined: 19 Sep 2003
25mm square ?
Perhaps 2.5mm square?
Regards,
Stuart.
Perhaps 2.5mm square?
Regards,
Stuart.
- stuartgb100
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 813
- Joined: 10 Sep 2005
Good advice Niall.. will endeavour to find the earth behind the dash later, after cutting the cable tie holding the left dash undertray on...
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Thor
I agree that it sounds like an earth problem.
One thing you may wish to try is to connect the motor contacts directly to the battery to see how quickly the window will rise and lower without the additional resitance of swiches, poor earth, old wiring etc. If it is still very slow you have an earth problem and a motor or friction problem. If it moves freely then you know what it should be like when you fix the earth.
Schroeder
I agree that it sounds like an earth problem.
One thing you may wish to try is to connect the motor contacts directly to the battery to see how quickly the window will rise and lower without the additional resitance of swiches, poor earth, old wiring etc. If it is still very slow you have an earth problem and a motor or friction problem. If it moves freely then you know what it should be like when you fix the earth.
Schroeder
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schroeder - Second Gear
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- Joined: 31 Jan 2006
hm, good idea. Took off the side cover under the left hand dash, AAARHH! very messy wires. Earth connection looked VERY solid, so adjusted a few loose connections here and there, and dealt with the very dirty/rusty rear earth by the battery... Will retry tomorrow, as I already have to get up at 0600... The national sportscar show here in Oslo, the year's biggest event! will be busy washing, autoglyming and fitting new spinners, before setting off..
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
As for the slow window--I have never been inside an Elan door so I don't know the guts of it but typically when a window starts to slow it is because the weatherstrip that it rides against in the track is wearing out. The weatherstrip is a rubber type material coated with that fuzzy velvety stuff. You know the stuff, it's around all car windows. When the fuzzy wears off the weatherstrip then you have glass on rubber. Glass has tremendous drag when it is rubbing on the rubber on the way up. It slows the window and if you let the problem go it can end up causing either the motor to burn out or the arms in the door that raise/lower the window to bend. Best to either take the door apart and fix the problem or don't use the window, otherwise you will be subjected to more expense in repairing it later. When the arms bend the window will go cockeye in the runners and won't go up straight.
1969 Lotus Elan +2
- CaveatLector
- New-tral
- Posts: 4
- Joined: 03 May 2006
Stuart, pretty sure it is 25mm2 cable (it's black battery starter cable)
There is aerosol lubricant you can get for nylon/rubber lubrication. It's great for window runners, even worn ones.
see the Maintenance list on this site...
http://www.holtsauto.com/products/index.html
Niall
There is aerosol lubricant you can get for nylon/rubber lubrication. It's great for window runners, even worn ones.
see the Maintenance list on this site...
http://www.holtsauto.com/products/index.html
Niall
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niallf - Second Gear
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- Joined: 19 Sep 2003
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