first time out today!
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1700 today I'm taking a can of fresh petrol to my mum's garage and taking the +2 out for this year, finally! Save for a few little runs inside the garage during the winter to keep it in shape it's been still...
I've had an answer to this before but again: Where is the main earth connection under the dash for the windows? The left one is INCREDIBLY slow (have to push it down, will creeeeeep up), so I will try cleaning the connection first, before dismantling the door panel (is this difficult?)
Otherwise I'm ready for the first drive, after carefully warming up with the bonnet open to check for any cracked pipes, petrol leaks etc.-.
Keys in my pocket ITCHING to go!
I've had an answer to this before but again: Where is the main earth connection under the dash for the windows? The left one is INCREDIBLY slow (have to push it down, will creeeeeep up), so I will try cleaning the connection first, before dismantling the door panel (is this difficult?)
Otherwise I'm ready for the first drive, after carefully warming up with the bonnet open to check for any cracked pipes, petrol leaks etc.-.
Keys in my pocket ITCHING to go!
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
The main earth is behind the dash on the drivers side, it is attatched to the bolt that goes down through the chassis. You can see it from underneath. I replaced mine and also took a wire from the bolt underneath to the starter motor mounting bolt to make sure of a good earth.
Before you take off the door card you might also check the earth wire from the motor as it enters the car from the door. It has a bullet connector to connect it to the loom. If this is corroded it won't help. Mine had come out completely stopping the window working.
Chris
Before you take off the door card you might also check the earth wire from the motor as it enters the car from the door. It has a bullet connector to connect it to the loom. If this is corroded it won't help. Mine had come out completely stopping the window working.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
mine had come out too..reconnected it, and now it's just DESPERATELY slow....have to push it half of the way down. A bolt(!) that goes from the dashboard all the doen into the chassis? That must be bloody long!Where on the driver's side exactly?
JUST BACK from the FIRST drive outside in 2006, moving the car from its hibernation space... Amazing just as expected. I just wanted to keep driving all night.
http://thorsvaboe.googlepages.com
JUST BACK from the FIRST drive outside in 2006, moving the car from its hibernation space... Amazing just as expected. I just wanted to keep driving all night.
http://thorsvaboe.googlepages.com
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
If you have a look you will see what I mean, it isn't long, look at your manual.
Chris
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
Don't know if this is any use to you with regard to slow windows, but I will put in my pennyworth.... I have just dismantled a couple of doors down to components (don't ask why) and noted that the window lifter arm for both windows runs in a channel at the bottom of the glass. This channel was full of old grease that had hardened which must make smooth running of the windows difficult. I was amazed at the stiff consistency of the grease and wonder how many window motors are struggling against 30/40 year old grease. It may be a bit drastic to dismantle the whole lot to clean and grease the window runners, but we like fiddling about.... don't we?!
Jeremy
Jeremy
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JJDraper - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 923
- Joined: 17 Oct 2004
Thor,
My passengers window was also incredibly slow and when used was accompanied by a "burning electrics" type smell. Not being too brave when it comes to fault finding electrical problems I decided to remove the door panel first and lubricate eveything liberally with WD40. It certainly worked and the window is now as quick and as smooth as any modern car....a huge relief
Jon
My passengers window was also incredibly slow and when used was accompanied by a "burning electrics" type smell. Not being too brave when it comes to fault finding electrical problems I decided to remove the door panel first and lubricate eveything liberally with WD40. It certainly worked and the window is now as quick and as smooth as any modern car....a huge relief
Jon
1972 Red Plus 2 S130/5
- Jonty5speed
- First Gear
- Posts: 39
- Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Amazing, my hopes are slowly being restored. Is it a pain to remove/replace the door sides?
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Thor,
Even for a person of my limited ability I found it very straightforward to follow the procedure described in the service manual to remove/replace the door pads. It's also worthwhile checking to see if the door release rod is in contact with the window operating arm, mine was, which probably didn't help matters. A small manual adjustment soon sorted it!
Jon
Even for a person of my limited ability I found it very straightforward to follow the procedure described in the service manual to remove/replace the door pads. It's also worthwhile checking to see if the door release rod is in contact with the window operating arm, mine was, which probably didn't help matters. A small manual adjustment soon sorted it!
Jon
1972 Red Plus 2 S130/5
- Jonty5speed
- First Gear
- Posts: 39
- Joined: 30 Nov 2005
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