Wobbling Wheels.......

[nomad]

How much runout on road wheels would be acceptable? Thought I had one that was bent but lost track of just which one that was so started checking them and discovered almost all of them have around 1/4" to 3/8" inch runout. Should I be concerned???

Kurt

[alaric]

Hi Kurt.

I'm sure others know better than me but I'll have a go... In theory runout will cause excessive brake pedal travel, brake judder - felt through the pedal - and maybe vibration at speed. I can't remember the spec but suspect it's less than 1mm. If you can't feel the effects then I guess it's ok, or you have something else going on.

Sean.

[ericbushby]

Hi Kurt and Sean.
I did not know what to make of this question. I thought it was a joke from you, Kurt, and I was expecting a laughing emoji. You have both been here longer than me and therefore experienced in Elans. So I may be holding the wrong end of the stick, however here goes.
Workshop manual, section G, wheels and tyres, Page 8. Maximum radial and axial runout allowable is 0.050".
Beyond this the wheel can not be balanced.
I had two wheels with 050" runout and they caused wobble on the front but were OK on the back wheels.
I don`t know if I am helping or not.
Cheers
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[MACCA.GLM]

Hi

Run out on wheels wants to be no more than 1mm. less even better.As you have excessive runout 1/4 to 3/8 sounds like they have been kerbed

It would be advantageous to go a bit deeper and check the runout of the hubs.Rears can be a problem if they are not seating correctly on the taper or key or bent outer drive shaft.You need to establish what is out of true ie hubs or wheels themselves.Most of us don't have a lathe big enough to spin the wheels and check so some ideas in the paragraph below.

It's harder to check the rears as you carnt spin them as fast as the fronts due to the driveshafts.Rear hubs need to be accurate mine are 2 thou put a dti clock on the face and turn the hub slowly .Take a reading .The best way is to check the wheels is on the front hubs. Adjust the play in the front hub end float 2 /4 thou and clock the outer face.Should be very accurate mine are within 2 thou.You can then fit the wheel spin it and you will see if its more than 1mm runout they will be a problem with vibration brake judder steering wheel shake etc etc.If As you have said 1/4 to 3/8 after all other checks unless you can get them trued up which I doubt you will be in for a set of wheels I'm afraid.

Hope this helps

Regards

G

[nomad]

Wow, disappointing. Wheels were checked on one front hub. I'll set up a pointer to get a more accurate idea and perhaps try the other front hub. Brake discs run true and within spec so its either where the wheel mounts or the wheels.

Kurt

[nomad]

I did figure that the title of the post would maybe elicit a chuckle or two....

Anyway, a pointer to judge just what I had, showed I was a little too pessimistic. Still only one within spec though. Close inspection shows they are in pretty bad shape. The Coronel, who was the original owner and last to drive this car some 50 years ago, was apparently somewhat of a wild man. He departed this world in an experimental airplane
back then that I imagine he enjoyed as he did this car. The car most definitely had been kerbed and I repaired the damage to the frame from that. The wheels have had some hard knocks.

Kurt
26/3754

[bitsobrits]

Are you indexing off of the rim "face" not the edge of the rim? Worthing checking the inner rim face as well to get a better idea of what's going on. Also, did you verify your hub is running true? I chased my tail on my Singer believing I had a bunch of wire wheels with large lateral runout, only to find out my "reference" hub was the issue.

[nomad]

Are you indexing off of the rim "face" not the edge of the rim? Worthing checking the inner rim face as well to get a better idea of what's going on. Also, did you verify your hub is running true? I chased my tail on my Singer believing I had a bunch of wire wheels with large lateral runout, only to find out my "reference" hub was the issue.

Hubs are good,Steve. I used a magnetic pointer for reference and located off the edge of the rim with a close eye on what the lower bead containing edge was doing. I found one rim that had hit a kerb, I imagine, square and had been straightened. That one was actually one of the truest! The spare was, of course, the one with the most runout. One with a crack where the rim was assembled at the factory that I think I will weld up but I think I will have to buy a couple. Have six so will have an excess of bent spares!

Kurt

























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