Lotus Elan

What did you do to your Lotus today...

PostPost by: MrBonus » Wed Jul 29, 2020 5:42 pm

tedtaylor wrote:beautiful car Ian.
i assume the tires don't rub as the fenders are flaired/customized a bit? Looks great with the larger wheel/tire combo.
hey, we're neighbors! you should stop in on one of your rides. would love to drive together with both our Elans touring beautiful Delaware bay coast farm and wildlife areas. Come on down! :)
TED


Thanks, Ted! I have not found it to rub under any circumstances I've encountered. The flares and wheels were installed two owners ago during a major restoration.

I'm slowly becoming more confident in taking the car further from home. Hopefully soon I'll feel comfortable heading down state in it! I would love to take it down Route 9 and the surrounding areas, however preferably when it's not 95 degrees daily.
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PostPost by: tedtaylor » Thu Jul 30, 2020 12:55 am

actually, just reading this, i just got back in from an evening sunset cruise in my Sprint all along Rt 9.....
until i got to a flooded section of the road near a bridge. it was high tide and that happens around here, so a quick U-turn and on we went, wife and i. LOVE driving my Elan on back road cruises....
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PostPost by: Barney » Thu Jul 30, 2020 3:43 pm

Brought my S2 out of long term storage. The job-list starts today.
Any idea why the clutch pedal is ROCK solid and how to solve?
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:29 pm

Disconnect the pedal from the pushrod and see if the pedal moves freely. If so, then it's in
the hydraulics, or pressure plate, or throwout bearing is rusted to the gearbox snout, or.....
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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Thu Jul 30, 2020 4:50 pm

tedtaylor wrote:i assume the tires don't rub as the fenders are flaired/customized a bit? Looks great with the larger wheel/tire combo.
IMG_3853.jpeg and
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PostPost by: pharriso » Sat Aug 01, 2020 10:27 pm

Finally tired of 95 ֯F (35 ֯C) weather & 10% ethanol fuel making the car very difficult to start when hot so installed an electric fuel pump:
IMG_0957.jpg and

Everything fitted nicely in the space between the spare tyre & fuel tank. Electrics are mounted on the sub-box which is also used to mount the hi-fi amp.
Between Amazon for the fuel pump & eBay for the relay & inertia switch it came to about $60 total. :D
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PostPost by: baileyman » Sun Aug 02, 2020 12:31 pm

Raydyot style mirrors, standoff brackets, trying to get the center mirror to quit drooping (copper inserts!), the continuing saga of TTR mags rubbing TTR upper control arms, fashioning bits of wood for easy lifting. The project advances more quickly After Corona (AC) than Before Corona (BC). John
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PostPost by: mwhitaker » Sun Aug 02, 2020 7:16 pm

Went out to check tires, wheel spinner torque and go fuel up for a planned club drive-upon starting the motor I found rough running as if on less than the number of available cylinders that worsened with a bit of choke. Got out, found a heavy fuel odor and found a steady drip of fuel from the front carb along the back next to the inlet manifold side via an absent throttle housing cover plate! I haven't had the carbs off before so I have no idea how long the cover has been gone.
Pulled off the carbs, inspected the upper chambers thinking the needle valve or float might be off. No sloshing fuel in floats or bubbles with a test in pan of H2O and float measurements of 8.5/15mm were spot on.
Replaced needle valves with new 2.0 units and upper cover gaskets, also replaced carb mount plastic spacers and new o rings with Thackery washers on bottom and rubber mounts on top-was able to maker sure spacer/washer distances are now equal-think they were off a bit before with two different types of plastic mounts previously mounted.
Also put on new cover plate/gasket on the front carb missing these items-seems to have done the trick with the car running well with no leaks and carbs balanced. Would have been nice to have an electric fuel pump or one with a lever given the 15 or so cranks of the starter to fill the fuel chambers but not too worried with new fuel pump and gear reduction starter in place.

Cheers, Mark Whitaker
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PostPost by: 661 » Sun Aug 02, 2020 8:48 pm

baileyman wrote:Raydyot style mirrors, standoff brackets, trying to get the center mirror to quit drooping (copper inserts!), the continuing saga of TTR mags rubbing TTR upper control arms, fashioning bits of wood for easy lifting. The project advances more quickly After Corona (AC) than Before Corona (BC). John


The upper wishbones need a heavy hammer! In the end I cut them with an angle grinder, bashed them in and then TIG'd them back together. Remember to do your trial fit with the lower wishbones at least vertical ( or slightly lower ride height)
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PostPost by: Hethel_Haus » Sun Aug 02, 2020 10:28 pm

Milestone event for me today. The body was separated from the chassis! And during these difficult Covid times, removal for me was a simple one-man job with the 4-post lift and integral overhead crane rail. I fabricated a lifting jig which was fastened to the sill beams using the same bolts inside the body. I was curious about how much the body itself weighs so I bought a digital scale to attach to the hoist. 23.8# for my lifting jig and 262# overall for a net body weight of 238.2#. Obviously lighter for my Plus 2 being a CN Cabriolet version. Anyway, it's nice to be a part of the body removal club now. Someone should make t-shirts for us!!!

2020-08-02 Body Removal_a.JPG and
Lifting jig

2020-08-02 Body Removal_e.JPG and
Sill attachment

2020-08-02 Body Removal_f.JPG and
Overhead crane system

2020-08-02 Body Removal_d.JPG and
Initial body separation from chassis

2020-08-02 Body Removal_j.JPG and
Job well done!


Cheers!
Steve
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PostPost by: baileyman » Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:11 am

661 wrote:...

The upper wishbones need a heavy hammer!

...


Indeed. Filing, bashing, grinding, bending all seem to be required. But now I think the main culprit is the bolt holes are in the wrong place, need to move up and out. These arms should come without holes and with instructions.

And yesterday, springs on and off three to four times and now ride height is now really close to correct with horizontal arms. (On a different day I will deal with camber.) There is a low priced coiro door mat at home Depot that makes excellent interior mat, however with a reduction in lightness. Pondering how to get the throttle friction out of the TTR race box design. John
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PostPost by: MrBonus » Mon Aug 03, 2020 2:48 pm

Hethel_Haus wrote:Milestone event for me today. The body was separated from the chassis! And during these difficult Covid times, removal for me was a simple one-man job with the 4-post lift and integral overhead crane rail. I fabricated a lifting jig which was fastened to the sill beams using the same bolts inside the body. I was curious about how much the body itself weighs so I bought a digital scale to attach to the hoist. 23.8# for my lifting jig and 262# overall for a net body weight of 238.2#. Obviously lighter for my Plus 2 being a CN Cabriolet version. Anyway, it's nice to be a part of the body removal club now. Someone should make t-shirts for us!!!



Cheers!
Steve


Great work!
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PostPost by: 661 » Mon Aug 03, 2020 2:57 pm

...[/quote]
Pondering how to get the throttle friction out of the TTR race box design. John[/quote]
That doesn't sound right. The throttle in the pedal box has virtually no friction when it is not attached to the throttle cables. So much so that it you hold the box horizontally in the air and alter the angle slightly the throttle will spin around.
PM me for pictures if in doubt.
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PostPost by: DJW » Tue Aug 04, 2020 4:36 am

Met up with a friend with his recently completed Superformance 40 build

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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Tue Aug 04, 2020 5:09 am

dream cars, you are in the company of greatest my friend.

got my sound reduction started, adding weightness.
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