Plastic Welding
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Hi All
I came across a product by chance the other day that may help solve a problem similar to mine.
The original ABS plastic cover on the central frame member on my early (1600 S1) started to crack a few years ago, this is an early dark grey colourd one that is not, as far as I know, replicated. I was going to take it to a body repair shop that I understand can now effectively weld plastic car components.
The gizmo is an ultra violet curing tool with that activates and cures a pen dispensed crack filler and chemically bonds the break together. I haven't got to it yet but will report back.
Bondic, manufactured by Laser Bonding Tech Inc in Canada - {www.notaglue.com}. Costs about $Can20.00
Bill
I came across a product by chance the other day that may help solve a problem similar to mine.
The original ABS plastic cover on the central frame member on my early (1600 S1) started to crack a few years ago, this is an early dark grey colourd one that is not, as far as I know, replicated. I was going to take it to a body repair shop that I understand can now effectively weld plastic car components.
The gizmo is an ultra violet curing tool with that activates and cures a pen dispensed crack filler and chemically bonds the break together. I haven't got to it yet but will report back.
Bondic, manufactured by Laser Bonding Tech Inc in Canada - {www.notaglue.com}. Costs about $Can20.00
Bill
Bill Rathlef
Vancouver Island, Canada
"Keep your stick on the ice, boys."
Vancouver Island, Canada
"Keep your stick on the ice, boys."
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Bill - Fourth Gear
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Bill wrote:The gizmo is an ultra violet curing tool with that activates and cures a pen dispensed crack filler and chemically bonds the break together. I haven't got to it yet but will report back.
interesting, sounds like UV curing epoxy, which polymerization is activated by the use of short wavelength light (typically LED, no laser required) - there is a whole range of characteristics one can get (viscosity, refraction index for optical uses, dental enamel versions etc )
I would first try adhesion or chemical reaction on a non visible corner - if it sticks, you still may benefit from adding a piece of rowing to the back, to strengthen the repair (I usually do that when using polyester resin for plastic repair, after roughing the surface for adhesion).
S4SE 36/8198
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
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+1 to what nmauduit wrote. This is another example of a UV cured adhesive, and it still relies on a bond. That's not to demean it in any way. If it's a secure bond, and produces a permanent repair, then great, it's something positive to add to the list.
However, 'plastic welding' is something that also exists, and it has been around for decades. I worked at a company that used it back in the 70s. If you think in terms of oxy-acetylene gas welding, you'd be in the right frame of mind. Except, eliminate the flame and replace it with a stream of hot inert gas. Instead of metal welding rod, substitute a slender filler rod of the same plastic that's being welded... like ABS. In the case of your cosmetic cover that's in an unobtainium color, you could slice off a sliver of the part from a hidden edge.
Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North ( (LOON)
However, 'plastic welding' is something that also exists, and it has been around for decades. I worked at a company that used it back in the 70s. If you think in terms of oxy-acetylene gas welding, you'd be in the right frame of mind. Except, eliminate the flame and replace it with a stream of hot inert gas. Instead of metal welding rod, substitute a slender filler rod of the same plastic that's being welded... like ABS. In the case of your cosmetic cover that's in an unobtainium color, you could slice off a sliver of the part from a hidden edge.
Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North ( (LOON)
- Esprit2
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chemically bonds the break together..........................................
You could say that for flour and water or a semi dried turd
Bottom line is it is an ?poxy with a different perhaps more convenient means of curing, it will probably stick very well, better than my two flippant examples but a plastic weld it is not. My dentist does my fillings with a UV cured ?poxy, every one of them either came unstuck or crumbled away from a poor bond (he is a K-rap dentist but the others here are even worse) after going back when the last filling fell out and insisting that he do a proper job with a crown as I had asked for, he set to work doing that and put in yet another this time temporary UV ?poxy filling and blow me down this one has held up but will soon be removed for the crown.
Esprit 2, I have always wanted to do proper plastic welding as I have stitched loads of shattered plastic things together over the years with a pistol soldering gun, I recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun for surface mount work which can also be used for plastic welding also a 3D printer pen which extrudes a molten filament of either ABS or PLA (whatever that is!) in various colours, after playing with it I reckon using that and the hot air gun together i might be able to plastic weld, a bit like heating metal with oxy-acetylene and using a mig torch for the filler rod!!!!
My cunning plans never work out and these things can sit on the shelf for 10 years before one day a job arises that they are perfect for.
You could say that for flour and water or a semi dried turd
Bottom line is it is an ?poxy with a different perhaps more convenient means of curing, it will probably stick very well, better than my two flippant examples but a plastic weld it is not. My dentist does my fillings with a UV cured ?poxy, every one of them either came unstuck or crumbled away from a poor bond (he is a K-rap dentist but the others here are even worse) after going back when the last filling fell out and insisting that he do a proper job with a crown as I had asked for, he set to work doing that and put in yet another this time temporary UV ?poxy filling and blow me down this one has held up but will soon be removed for the crown.
Esprit 2, I have always wanted to do proper plastic welding as I have stitched loads of shattered plastic things together over the years with a pistol soldering gun, I recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun for surface mount work which can also be used for plastic welding also a 3D printer pen which extrudes a molten filament of either ABS or PLA (whatever that is!) in various colours, after playing with it I reckon using that and the hot air gun together i might be able to plastic weld, a bit like heating metal with oxy-acetylene and using a mig torch for the filler rod!!!!
My cunning plans never work out and these things can sit on the shelf for 10 years before one day a job arises that they are perfect for.
- Chancer
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Now where did I stash that vacuum pump I bought two years ago to use when I re-veneer the dash? Yup, It's on the bottom shelf in the cabinet where I store the duplicate parts that I've bought over the years for this project.
Bud
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
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1970 +2S Fed 0053N
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pharriso wrote:That's how I come to have a basement full of crap, I mean Elan, Porsche 944 Turbo & BMW e46 M3 parts/tools that may be useful one day.
At least you have a basement!
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
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They are great to have! I went from living in a basement apartment with no garage to a house with a basement-level garage (the 'garagement' I sometimes say) with enough space for the Lotus, the motorbike, two daily drivers, workbenches, laundry, and other odds & ends. It is bliss!
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
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