What did you do to your Lotus today...
Graeme
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
S4 SE
S2 GTS
Caterham 420R
Sold - Peterson JPS Exige
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661 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1195
- Joined: 29 Mar 2012
Today was the first time in 12 years that the car got out the garage under its own steam and did a quick trip round the block
Everything seems to work
I started it a few weeks ago when it was on axle stands and was amazed that it started after a coupe of turns (having checked oil pressure without plugs first and using a boot primer for the fuel pump)
I will regret saying this but I only have the windscreen to fit and the rear screen seal.
The clutch works fine, wasn’t stuck to flywheel, but the biting point is quite low - is that normal.
At first there was a rubbing/squeaking noise from the front of the engine but it stopped when the engine warmed up - perhaps water pump bearing having been dry for 12 years ?
The steel wheels are poor but will be replaced with some revolutions from Kelvedon motors when they get some in.
Few pics below
Everything seems to work
I started it a few weeks ago when it was on axle stands and was amazed that it started after a coupe of turns (having checked oil pressure without plugs first and using a boot primer for the fuel pump)
I will regret saying this but I only have the windscreen to fit and the rear screen seal.
The clutch works fine, wasn’t stuck to flywheel, but the biting point is quite low - is that normal.
At first there was a rubbing/squeaking noise from the front of the engine but it stopped when the engine warmed up - perhaps water pump bearing having been dry for 12 years ?
The steel wheels are poor but will be replaced with some revolutions from Kelvedon motors when they get some in.
Few pics below
- Chris-72sprint
- Second Gear
- Posts: 70
- Joined: 08 Apr 2020
Well done in getting another resurrected. Love the colour
Agree with Mark time to enjoy the autumn sun...
Hope to get mine back out again later this week, just doing the valve clearances and a currently a couple of shims shy of what I need...
QED order on its way
Agree with Mark time to enjoy the autumn sun...
Hope to get mine back out again later this week, just doing the valve clearances and a currently a couple of shims shy of what I need...
QED order on its way
- Sploder90
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 09 Apr 2019
So wheel bearing question - my bearings haven't been making any noise nor is there any noticeable slop in the steering wheel but after a spirited drive Saturday, I gave the passenger wheel a bit of a left/right tug and felt/heard a small amount of clicking and play.
I know these bearings are supposed to have a little play per the service manual but should I be able to make any movement in the wheel? Can I simply attempt to tighten the castle nut and check if the play is in spec (ordered a dial tester to arrive today)?
I've never done bearing work before so this is new territory for me.
I know these bearings are supposed to have a little play per the service manual but should I be able to make any movement in the wheel? Can I simply attempt to tighten the castle nut and check if the play is in spec (ordered a dial tester to arrive today)?
I've never done bearing work before so this is new territory for me.
1967 Lotus Elan Coupe - Super Safety
2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance
1973 Ford F100 4x4
2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance
1973 Ford F100 4x4
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MrBonus - Second Gear
- Posts: 180
- Joined: 09 Oct 2017
MarkDa wrote:@MrBonus
We leave a little play in the bearings to provide room for them to expand when they warm up.
So arguably there should be very little play after a spirited drive.
Therefore yes it will be worth checking them again.
Thanks, Mark. I checked it about an hour after the drive, so perhaps I take it on a quick drive and see if they tighten up before I start adjusting things.
1967 Lotus Elan Coupe - Super Safety
2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance
1973 Ford F100 4x4
2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance
1973 Ford F100 4x4
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MrBonus - Second Gear
- Posts: 180
- Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Checked valve clearances and ordered up a few extra shims... then had to put another order in with QED for some cam studs as a couple have stripped & now little bits of thread coming off with the nuts.
Hope non have dropped in so guess a swipe around with a magnet may be in order...
2 of the long ones replaced when I had the head work done.. as the cover securing threads were a bit iffy, turns out I should probably have just done the lot at the time. Think the culprit may be the nuts used.
Just hope they come out of the head without issue.
Hope non have dropped in so guess a swipe around with a magnet may be in order...
2 of the long ones replaced when I had the head work done.. as the cover securing threads were a bit iffy, turns out I should probably have just done the lot at the time. Think the culprit may be the nuts used.
Just hope they come out of the head without issue.
- Sploder90
- Second Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: 09 Apr 2019
Coming back from our last road trip, to Eureka Springs, AR, I noticed at one point that the engine felt a bit harsher, and there were dash/console vibrations that weren't there before.
When we got home, I check the car out and found that the bottom of the exhaust header seemed to be touching, or very nearly touching, the cross member. It looked like the engine mount had slipped down a bit where it's attached to the chassis.
So I put a jack under the engine, and repositioned the mount. When I lowered the jack, the engine went right back where it was. On closer inspection, it was clear the engine mount had failed. I guess the exhaust heat, over time, just got to it and it gave up. There was metal on metal contact in the mount that was transmitting vibration through the chassis.
So today's project was to replace it. I got it off ok, but, and I'm still a bit confused about this - I needed more room on that side to get the new one on. So I pulled off the starter and the right side mount, and pushed the engine over about an inch, and got the room I needed. I'm getting pretty good at getting the starter on/off!
While I was at it, I converted to a washer bottle, from the bag that was used on the Sprint. Much easier to tell that you're low on fluid now.
When we got home, I check the car out and found that the bottom of the exhaust header seemed to be touching, or very nearly touching, the cross member. It looked like the engine mount had slipped down a bit where it's attached to the chassis.
So I put a jack under the engine, and repositioned the mount. When I lowered the jack, the engine went right back where it was. On closer inspection, it was clear the engine mount had failed. I guess the exhaust heat, over time, just got to it and it gave up. There was metal on metal contact in the mount that was transmitting vibration through the chassis.
So today's project was to replace it. I got it off ok, but, and I'm still a bit confused about this - I needed more room on that side to get the new one on. So I pulled off the starter and the right side mount, and pushed the engine over about an inch, and got the room I needed. I'm getting pretty good at getting the starter on/off!
While I was at it, I converted to a washer bottle, from the bag that was used on the Sprint. Much easier to tell that you're low on fluid now.
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
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steve lyle - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 509
- Joined: 15 Jun 2015
I've been busy over the past week collecting my Loti, now all back under the one roof at the Shed and now its time to get into them again. With 26R S2 in foreground, S2 repaired 26R shell and S1 Shapecraft under the cover.... next step is to drill all the holes on the 26R shell and get to out for paint using the S2 as the reference, then its off to be painted a pale Lotus Blue and then into final assembly with 1760TC, semi close etc.
- vstibbard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 877
- Joined: 22 Jul 2008
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