Tools tequired

[l10tus]

I could do with obtaining the following tools:-

1) A Brass Bullet connector crimping tool, suitable for 4.7mm Bullets.

2) Gunsons ColorTune 14mm.

if anybody has either for sale, I'd appreciate a PM or telephone call on :-

Tel:07745514123

Ta,

Phil.

[l10tus]

Update -

John Clegg sorted the ColorTune for me ( thanks John, really appreciate your help!)

But the Crimper is still required ?

Thanks,

Phil.

[john.p.clegg]

Phil
Sorry to but in again but it looks like Holden do two types...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68KFtQdbA_Y

John

[pharriso]

Phil
Sorry to but in again but it looks like Holden do two types...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68KFtQdbA_Y

John

Do yourself a favour & buy the "Professional" tool, well worth the cost for avoiding the frustration of bad connections & wasted terminals.

Available here http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/wiring-tools/high-quality-rachet-action-bullet-crimp-tool-giving-a-professional-hexagonal-crimp-finish.html

Took me 30 years to learn the value of good tools...

[Elanconvert]

for bullet terminals, I use solder.........pencil torch for a couple of quids, and some cored solder makes a very positive join....

fred

[l10tus]

John, Fred and John,

Thanks for the replies - great info !

I've been soldering my bullets throughout the refurb process, however, I recently read an article advising that when soldering them on, the solder tends to 'wick' further up the cable, often leading to premature connection failure due to the wires' inability to flex and give.

I have had a couple of suspect connections that have failed even though they appear to have been soldered during my ownership ( although not 100% sure?).

I quite like the idea of not having to mess about with solder, flux, extension leads, heat-up / cool down periods, etc. - so I propose to give the crimping option a try.

If as successful as hoped, this will also make it a little less ' risky ' when working inside the car with the hot iron, around the dashboard plastic areas, I hope!

The write ups suggest the more expensive Hex. Crimper to be the best tool to use, so that's the way I'm tending to lean at present, should certainly be a little easier to do the final connections also, methinks?

Time will tell !

Regards,

Phil.

[terryp]

+ 1 on the Hex tool, they are fab!

terry

[Elanconvert]

phil

you are right about the heat disadvantage, and I would be very, very careful using it near a car........always remove the wire first if poss........
not sure I believe the 'wicking' story, though......... if the solder is only on the 'nose' of the bullet, and with very thin cored solder, I've never had a problem........it might happen if say you dipped the wire in flux before soldering........


fred

[john.p.clegg]

Just received my latest VWP catalogue and they're here...

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... ?xProd=272

John

[simonknee]

A good crimp makes a "cold-weld" which has better electrical and mechanical properties than a solder joint.
From elsewhere on the web

"a good crimp takes the metal sufficiently past the yield point, but not too much, so that the "spring back" keeps the connection secure, even under thermal cycling (the coefficient of expansion of the two metals might be different) and vibration. A good crimp connection is gas tight and won't wick: it is sometimes referred to as a "cold weld".

A poor quality tool will not be able to do this, buy the best you can.
Cables do tend to fail just after the solder joint - especially if there is heat-cycling and vibration added.
Good soldering is an art - so is crimping but it is easier and quicker and you don't burn your fingers.

To my shame I cannot claim never to have used a dab of solder to rescue a dodgy crimp!