Rear hub puller thread (K/O)

[Lotus54]

I will measure of course, but I need to make a hub puller for rear hubs for K/O wheels.
I know one is LH and one RH.

Thread diameter and pitch and angle, if non-‘standard’.

Just to verify my measurements are right.

[Sadbrewer]

Others might disagree, but I'd be slightly wary about putting so much work onto the threads, particularly if the hub has been on for many years. I use an old heavy duty Sykes Pickavant four leg hydraulic puller that pulls on a half inch plus thick plate cut to sit behind the hub...the puller is powerful enough to bend the plate...even then it can sit for hours on end and then suddenly go off like a gunshot.

[alanr]

Kelvedon do a purpose made rear hub puller that I can confirm works perfectly.
https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/rear-hub-puller/

Alan

[Lotus54]

Yes, I was just going to make one like the one shown in the pics.

I will consider thread strains. I can make the puller out of softer material than the hub, so it would strip before the hub would.

I have an electronic lead screw, so setting thread pitch, LH and RH is pretty darn easy.

Mark

[512BB]

The Kelvedon hub remover and the ones that I picture, are absolutely made for the job with no chance of damaging anything. The same cannot be said for various pullers that have been tried over the years, as reported on here.

No need for heat or anything else. Just screw it on all the way and wind in the centre bolt, or lever in my case, onto the nut that you have left on the thread of the shaft, but losened,and off they popple. No bangs or anything like that to frighten the neighbours, they just flop off.

If you think about it, it is like having a puller leg on every bit, of every thread. Thats a lot of legs, and that is why it works so effortlessly, because the force is so even. Took off JonBoys hubs in about 5 minutes, for both sides, and they had not been off in 50 years.

If you are going to make just one tool Mark to do both sides, make sure that the centre section where the bolt screws in is good and thick.

Leslie

PS. And don't drop it on your foot.

[Lotus54]

Thanks!
I likely will make two, one LH one RH. I think it would be easier, plus I can keep it in one setup for concentricity.

I measured 10 TPI at 2.168 major ( 2 11/64” ?)

Thanks

[JonB]

Took off JonBoys hubs in about 5 minutes, for both sides.

I think you meant “JonB’s”, haha. And thanks for doing them Leslie, you know how long it took me to get one hub off on the Plus 2!

[Craven]

I wonder who designs these things, all the force being applied to the hub will be transferred through the small diameter jacking screw in the centre this will give way long before the hub threads. I use a block between the protected shaft and the spinner, dead hammer blows are twofold force and shock.

[smo17003]

I also have a version of the Kelvedon tool that Leslie has mentioned. Besides pulling the hub, I've found that if you screw it onto the hub after jacking up and removing the wheel, it is ideal for placing a normal height type axle stand under it to support that corner of the car (advisable to chock the other wheels). It gives you good access around the wheelarch and wishbone area if perhaps you want to have a clean up or check bolt torques.

Mike

[Lotus54]

On some of my flywheel pullers, there is a small brass/bronze piece between crankshaft and the bolt that pushes. That will distort before the crank will.
I have had some (tapered fit) ones there were a bugger to get off. One thing that helped a bunch was using an air hammer on the bolt while under tension. The rapid hammers seem to help release the taper.

[snowyelan]

One of the downsides of this type of puller is that it pushes on the end of the axle thread and can mushroom it. There's another style that puts the force thru an adapter that bears on the shoulder below the thread and prevents this potential issue. Its another piece to machine, but that part of the fun, no?

[Lotus54]

One of the downsides of this type of puller is that it pushes on the end of the axle thread and can mushroom it. There's another style that puts the force thru an adapter that bears on the shoulder below the thread and prevents this potential issue. Its another piece to machine, but that part of the fun, no?

Good idea, I will check that out and make that part if I can.
I am going to do a test cut in some delrin I think- just because inside threads can be a bit tricky sometimes.

[512BB]

I wrote 'onto the nut that you have left on the thread of the shaft, but losened'

Snoweyelan wrote 'One of the downsides of this type of puller is that it pushes on the end of the axle thread and can mushroom it'

Not so. You undo the nut on the axle past the end of the thread. Impossible for the thread to be damaged. As I see it, there are no downsides using this type of puller. It is the correct tool for the job.

Leslie

[Hawksfield]

]Hi all
This post reminds me of my time working in the Libyan desert in the eighties when an Austrian friend machined me a hub puller similar to that offered by Kelvedon. I used this a number of times before the centre thread was stripped. As I had completed my work it went to the spares bin.
Many years later I needed to change rear wheel bearings and remembered the Desert puller, I fitted a large bolt and nut into the centre adjusted to impact the hub shaft centre this allowed me to remove the hub using 14" stillsons with the disc break locked. The stillsons gripped the outer surface of the puller and the bolt head allowed me to impact using a heavy hammer.

So I got my monies worth of it and is still ready for use.
John

[Craven]

I think your adaption amount to this and the spinner, the one I use.
https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and- ... 6D0007.htm