Scissor lift

[NYK]

Anyone using anything like this. I was thinking of using perhaps 1 or 2 inch dense foam on the platforms onto which the car?s floor pan would sit

[mbell]

I have quick Jack that I have made foam covered spreaders for. Works well. I just used harbor freight floor foam.

[NYK]

I have quick Jack that I have made foam covered spreaders for. Works well. I just used harbor freight floor foam.

Thanks, so just to confirm you are taking the full weight of the car on the underside of the fibreglass floor pan?

[TomMull]

I have a similar "mid range" scissor lift. I made two cross pieces of 1 x 2 inch rectangular tube that go from the jacking points on one side to the corresponding points on the other side. They are "notched" for the exhaust and shimmed to just tough the chassis on the way. (My sills and jacking points are on the list for replacement)
I also have to raise the car off the floor by 2 1/2 inches to get everything to clear. I use 2 inch foam ramps to do that which are covered on top and bottom by 1/4 plywood.
Right now the cross pieces just sit on the lift pads but I'm working on a way to fasten them to the lift.
This lift works great for wheels, brakes, steering, and suspension. Very good access to both ends of the car too. But for anything in the middle, I use jacks and a creeper.
Tom

[mbell]

Yes, but I am very careful with positioning the spreaders so that they pick up strong areas of the floor near the wheel arches.

Not sure how long your lift is but it not being long enough to pick up strong areas would be my main concern.

[NYK]

Thanks both, some good advice there

[nmauduit]

just thinking : isn't there the equivalent of these, but one for each wheel?

as for my car, I would not work on it while resting on fiberglass corners (seen quite a few cracks corners and I'm sure lifting is what caused them), even with two beam supporting the whole sides I would be hesitant.

[2sheds+1]

I've been using somthing similar for 10 years with no problems

[NYK]

I've been using somthing similar for 10 years with no problems

It looks like the car is just on smallish wooden blocks (perhaps 4), is that the case?

[2sheds+1]

well in fact 2 wooden blocks with carpet and 2 rubber blocks because somehow I lost one

[EPC 394J]

I use 10? squares of chipboard. Seems to work well.

Oh, and purely for information, Spydercars actually replaced my sill members with the car suspended from the wheel arch corners. (Albeit without the heavy metal of the chassis and engine. Though the chassis would probably have added stiffness as well as weight?) Since the doors still open and close perfectly, I presume no distortion occurred?

[el-saturn]

pretty bad RIDE you got there 2shed!! sandy

[2sheds+1]

Thanks Sandy I love it
Tony

[ted]

I recently purchased an EZ Lift scissors lift. It seems to be quite sturdy, made in the USA and a bit pricey compared to others, but has some nice features. It has adjustable sliding blocks with rubber tops so you can jack up the Elan on its frame. It has an optional large caster set so you can move the whole thing around with car on it, and it lifts using gears so you can work under it without having to add jack stands.

To use it you need a corded drill and using a furnished adapter attached to a 3/8 drive 3/8 deep socket. It's a bit slow and I had to make some ramp blocks to get it under the Elan, but once it's up you have plenty of access.

Their web site is http://www.ezcarlift.com. Attached are a couple pics.

Ted

[alanr]

I like the idea of a Mid height Scissor lift. I think it would suit my small double garage and my requirements generally. However I am concerned what the effect of having the rear suspension 'dangling' would have on the Rotoflexes. I guess the same effect would happen on a 2poster so I would appreciate hearing others experiences and what effects it has had on the Rotoflexes.
I could alwys go full CV joints I suppose?... CV's 'dangling' at full stretch angle would be better but still I guess not ideal.

Alan.