Tandem master cylinder reservoir replacement
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I am looking at getting a new plastic reservoir for the Plus 2 Federal style tandem brake master cylinder. Ray has replacements listed right now.
What is involved to replace the reservoir? Do I need to remove the whole pedal box to gain access? If necessary, can the brake master cylinder be removed without removing everything?
Any tips and tricks appreciated.
Stu
What is involved to replace the reservoir? Do I need to remove the whole pedal box to gain access? If necessary, can the brake master cylinder be removed without removing everything?
Any tips and tricks appreciated.
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2106
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
Hey Stu,
Hope all is well. I did the Girling reservoir replacement from RD Ent. The master cylinder should be removed for replacement. However if you cut an access port in the pedal box you can leave the pedal box installed, and the clutch hydraulics stay in tact as well! See my thread here, page 1, about half way down the page. viewtopic.php?f=51&t=53498
I used a 4" hole saw that worked really great. Just go slow toward the end of the box thickness you don't want to mar the components with the saw. Be sure to try to deburr the sharp edges, or you'll be a bit scratched up going after the bolts. (don't ask me how I know...) After you've got access to the attaching bolts, and have removed the master cylinder you can begin the reservoir replacement procedure.
The difficulty will be removing the primary bore conical shaped reservoir tube. There is a snap ring down in the bore holding it super tight. I had to destroy the old reservoir to gain access with a needle nose pliers to remove the remaining plastic reservoir outlet piece remaining in the actuator valve and remove the old snap ring. Its tedious and not fun.
Once that is has been removed install the two new seals in the actuator that come with the reservoir kit. Toss the old ones. Put the new snap ring into the bore first, and then press the new reservoir unit into place. (There is some discussion on how to approach this step, but this worked for me.)
It takes a great deal of force to get the conical tube inserted for the snap ring to finally engage. But once its in, IT's IN! You'll hear a loud pop when the snap ring finally engages the groove. It is difficult, so following this step an adult beverage is recommended. Note: It cannot be removed intact EVER! So double check your steps along the way. Don't forget those seals. Hope this is helpful and let me know if you need any additional clarification.
Cheers
MIke
Hope all is well. I did the Girling reservoir replacement from RD Ent. The master cylinder should be removed for replacement. However if you cut an access port in the pedal box you can leave the pedal box installed, and the clutch hydraulics stay in tact as well! See my thread here, page 1, about half way down the page. viewtopic.php?f=51&t=53498
I used a 4" hole saw that worked really great. Just go slow toward the end of the box thickness you don't want to mar the components with the saw. Be sure to try to deburr the sharp edges, or you'll be a bit scratched up going after the bolts. (don't ask me how I know...) After you've got access to the attaching bolts, and have removed the master cylinder you can begin the reservoir replacement procedure.
The difficulty will be removing the primary bore conical shaped reservoir tube. There is a snap ring down in the bore holding it super tight. I had to destroy the old reservoir to gain access with a needle nose pliers to remove the remaining plastic reservoir outlet piece remaining in the actuator valve and remove the old snap ring. Its tedious and not fun.
Once that is has been removed install the two new seals in the actuator that come with the reservoir kit. Toss the old ones. Put the new snap ring into the bore first, and then press the new reservoir unit into place. (There is some discussion on how to approach this step, but this worked for me.)
It takes a great deal of force to get the conical tube inserted for the snap ring to finally engage. But once its in, IT's IN! You'll hear a loud pop when the snap ring finally engages the groove. It is difficult, so following this step an adult beverage is recommended. Note: It cannot be removed intact EVER! So double check your steps along the way. Don't forget those seals. Hope this is helpful and let me know if you need any additional clarification.
Cheers
MIke
'71 Lotus Elan Plus 2S130 (Type 50/0179)
'70 Opel GT
'67 Sunbeam Alpine
'88 Porsche 924 S
'67 Elan S3 DHC
'70 Opel GT
'67 Sunbeam Alpine
'88 Porsche 924 S
'67 Elan S3 DHC
- mjbeanie
- Second Gear
- Posts: 165
- Joined: 29 Mar 2019
+1 Wot Mike said. I just did this job a couple of days ago. The access-hole in the top of the box helps a great deal- I made the hole a few years ago whilst restoring the box after reading in this forum about what a good idea it is. I used a rotary-tool with cutoff wheel to make a big square hole, essentially removing the top except for a flange around 3/8" wide around the edges to accept screws to secure the lid. I also used a little RTV on the flange as I found that the steel of the box was a little thin and soft for threads that felt very secure.
And the access-hole definitely made removing the MC easier! Got the whole job done in an afternoon.
And the access-hole definitely made removing the MC easier! Got the whole job done in an afternoon.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2391
- Joined: 16 Nov 2015
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