A bit baffled-Handbrake Tree removal

[mjbeanie]

Hello all,

I've been working on this 71 Lotus Plus 2, for 2 years Plus. Fatigue is setting in.
Can someone give me insight into how the handbrake tree comes off its post. Is it just a slip fit?
I've a new one I wish to install, yet the old one seems to not seem to just lift off. Do I need a bigger hammer? lol

Also is the orientation of the braking "rods" that connect to the tree correct? This is how I bought the car. Just wish to confirm. The preview is sideways. The photo was taken from passenger side facing inward.

I've noted some interference with the differential but no adjustments have been made as I've just put in the new handbrake cable. Thanks for your kind assistance!

Trying to wrap up the brake effort, "there's no stopping me now.."
Pardon the pun...

Mike

[oldelanman]

The lever is threaded internally and screws on to the vertical pivot so, unfortunately, the assembly needs to be removed from the chassis to get the lever off .. not that easy with the body fitted! The 2 seater Elan Workshop Manual covers removal/refitting and gives a setting dimension for the correct assembled height ... I presume the |Plus 2 Manual covers this too - do you have a copy?

[mjbeanie]

Hi Roger,
Thanks for the information. Yes I do have a copy. However, I am going to classify this replacing the tree as a "nice to have." I elected to leave the old one in as it still appears operable.

I have been reading numerous posts on this crazy setup and am working on making final adjustments. The new cable from SJS sporstcars has been fitted. I am still running into some fouling of the "lever tree"/ chassis mounted fulcrum hitting on the differential housing when the hand brake lever is pulled. I would love to see any tree assembly and cable arm photos in the relaxed state, and the same hardware photo taken with the handbrake fully engaged. I think this would be helpful if anyone has such photos.

What I thought was a simple task is surprisingly tedious and time consuming to get sorted. It appears others have also had this issue. Suggestions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks

[john.p.clegg]

viewtopic.php?t=20972&p=123304

John

[The Veg]

Opinions vary about how useful the handbrake in these cars is, but I think most of us agree that keeping it functional is an uphill battle against a moving target.

[mbell]

The tree rotation is effected by suspension travel, so position with both sides in full droop will be different to with the car sat level on the ground. (You need to adjust the handbrake pads with car level on the ground.)

I repaired the oval hole on my tree and made adjustable rods using small ball joints and ali threaded rod. Which cost $15 a side. Handbrake easily holds on my 20+% incline drive way.

[Donels]

This picture may help.

[Quart Meg Miles]

I repaired the oval hole on my tree and ....

Do this! Drill identical round holes in all paired parts of the linkage and fit pins with very small clearance. Smother with grease and most problems vanish, the handbrake failing anyway!

[mbell]

I welded an extra sheet of metal and filled the holes in mine. This made the holes round again and more surface area to avoid the wearing oval again.

[mjbeanie]

This picture may help.

IMG_8247.jpeg

Thanks very much. A great reference photo. You've done some great work there. I actually got my handbrake system to work pretty well. I set the car down and tightened all suspension bolts to spec. Adjusted the pads to full lock position then backed them off to help set the "tree lever span." Following this I installed a small turnbuckle to adapt the cable length as it came up short to the tree linkage, after everything else was working well. After some final adjustments, it works perfectly now.