changing rear dampers

[acrocco]

hi i own a 1969 s4 se
i have to change my rear dampers (bought GAZ replacements) im staying with original springs perches etc etc
could you give me some tips to do the work ?
cheers form Montevideo URUGUAY..
Alvaro

[reb53]

I'm not familiar with GAZ inserts but they should have, hopefully, a hole drilled across the top of the shaft which is to put a split pin through to secure the castle nut that screws on the end.
This hole is really useful to put a bit of wire through to use to pull the shock up into place and through the Lotocone which is in the chassis strut.
If you thread the wire firstly through the nut, down through the Lotocone, and then through the hole in the shaft, you can have a helper pull up on the wire whilst you align and rattle the strut into the correct position.
When it is, the helper can screw the castle nut down with their fingers which will hold it in place until you get a spanner onto it.
I did some years ago that for some reason had either no hole, or a hole on part of the shaft that hadn't been reduced so there was no way it would have fitted up through the Lotocone.
So I drilled, and threaded, a short hole in the end and used a threaded rod to pull everything into place.
Sounds like a lot of messing around but it certainly made things easy.

Ralph.

[ceejay]

It is far easier to remove the rear strut as a complete assembly, rather than to try and stuff around with lining up of things while its in the car. But of course a few changes need to be made to achieve this, but over time, I modified things so that work times are less, and the job is much easier to carry out. This idea wont be for every one, but it really works in my case.
Take a read at the page below to learn more.
https://elantrikbits.com/lotus-elan-blo ... ebuilding/

[reb53]

Obviously you need to remove the strut to do this job, I can't imagine any other way.
I found the spring compressors got in the way and pushed everything out of line.
So when you attempted to carefully push the strut back up into the car, complete with spring, compressors on the side of them, and a collar on the top , the shock rod would get pushed down rather than going up through the Lotocone.
If I had narrow springs, so the compressors were closer together, I suspect there would have been a bit more room.

[ceejay]

I can fully understand where you are at.

The first time that I went through the "remove rear strut" as per the workshop manual,
my thoughts were, you've got to be kidding Chappers.
So then I decided to change the way I would do this job on my S2, and what I outlined
is how it is done... yes, lots of mods, but I don't have any hassle with the job now.

Over the years, there have been plenty of other elan owners explain the same pain as you have.
Probably another reason why the elan is maligned and said to be a pain to work on by other people.
But like a lot of things in life, its easy when you know how.

The work shop manual method is obviously a two man job.
I hope you can sort it out.

[mbell]

I was able to remove them as whole unit on my car when it had standard springs, inc lotocones. The lotocones where secured with 12 sided bolts so could get a socket on them and remove them. I've now switch to allen head bolts for re-fitting.

They had the original shocks in them, so not sure if the 12 sided bolts were factory or later mod. Its certainly worth having a go at removing them whole and refit prebuilt.

[ceejay]

The twelve point bolts are good fasteners as are the hex drive socket head items, use whats best for said application. I will agree that its much easier to remove rear strut assembly in order to carry out what ever work is required on the bench, I've been doing that for decades. You don't have to break the brake lines either, just make a long wire hook to locate onto the top lotocone bracket, and hang them on that until re-assembly time.

Further to this... I was trying to find this photo this morning... now found. Illustrates rear strut removed from car, leaving CVDS, brake caliper still connected to pipe lines but supported on hanger wire, and ARB disconnected.