Rear brakes
22 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
englishmaninwales wrote:Does fitting the extra spring remove the irritating rattle from the handbrake mechanism on an uneven road surface?
No, but it reduces it.
68 Elan S3 HSCC Roadsports spec
71 Elan Sprint (being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
71 Elan Sprint (being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
- Andy8421
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1181
- Joined: 27 Mar 2011
Not sure, that symptom seems more likely to be due to those centralising strips. I expect that failing to bend them outwards on changing the pads would lead to loose pads & hence rattles.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 5062
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
To add to the excellent parts diagram already posted, I don’t see the bushings that IIRC are used to centralize the lever and Clevis pins (15 & 11 respectively) within the holes in the clamping levers (parts 6 & 7). Think I have that right, but not 100% sure. At any rate I don’t see the bushings in the parts diagram or listings. Photo below shows the bushings on the SJ site. I fashioned something suitable by filing down some hex nuts.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50849
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50311
And this thread where Jeff at JAE explains this little rascal and the problems if it is lost or missing …
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=25716&start=15
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50849
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=50311
And this thread where Jeff at JAE explains this little rascal and the problems if it is lost or missing …
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=25716&start=15
- Attachments
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
-
stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
As well as the good advice that has already been offered regarding reforming the handbrake centralising strips, I would add my experience that introducing a slight twist to these strips can solve the problem where the gap between pad and disc is not parallel.
Once this gap is parallel (and equal for inner & outer), it is possible to set the pads very close to the disc without any binding. So doing will greatly diminish wear on these pads, ensuring that your handbrake remains effective over long periods without the need for regular adjustment to compensate for unnecessary wear.
Assuming that you only apply the handbrake when the car is already stationary, there really oughtn’t to be much wear occurring on these small pads!
Cheers, Doug
Once this gap is parallel (and equal for inner & outer), it is possible to set the pads very close to the disc without any binding. So doing will greatly diminish wear on these pads, ensuring that your handbrake remains effective over long periods without the need for regular adjustment to compensate for unnecessary wear.
Assuming that you only apply the handbrake when the car is already stationary, there really oughtn’t to be much wear occurring on these small pads!
Cheers, Doug
- Boomer100E
- New-tral
- Posts: 8
- Joined: 28 May 2014
Doug’s comment above reminds me of the reason that I could not get my hand brake to work correctly. Items 6 and 7 (in the drawing reproduced by Bill) have two curved surfaces that bare onto the hand brake pads. These items were replaced by Classicar Automotive but had not been finished correctly with the result being that the pads were not parallel to the disc, as the curvatures were all different. Using an original item lent to me by Aussie John I made a template and filed items 6&7 so that all curvatures were the same then had the items replated. As Doug says the pads are now parallel with the disc, and only applied when the car is stationary.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1213
- Joined: 05 Jul 2008
22 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 26 guests