A Frame Adjustable Turnbuckle

[h20hamelan]

Anyone know the I.D. Of the +2 arms

From the above link

“Tube works out at 3/4" ID ,I have 1/2"BSF nuts,are you using 1/2" UNF? if so I'll check out my local stockist for you?

John ”

Then

“Be careful with the inner and outer diameter of the wishbone tubing; my good friend has just made me a set of adjustables for my +2, he found the +2 tube was smaller diameter and thicker walled than the S4, also the S4 wishbones were brazed but the +2 were welded, cheers, John.”

Kind Regards

[h20hamelan]

Wonder if its possible, to tap threads into A arms?

[661]

Wonder if its possible, to tap threads into A arms?

I would imagine the thickness of the tubes is sufficient to do the job that it's intended to do, but probably not so if you carved threads out of it. I really advise against that thought and welding in a rod insert is the way to go.

[h20hamelan]

How about a sleeve over the A arm tube, where you cut the threads in. Would probably need to extend past the ends of the threads a titch?

[h20hamelan]

It seems like the difference from using an insert into the A arm tube, vs threads is

Threads, the outer can be reinforced, not sure getting the exact size pipe for the O.D. though. I suspect this is the real issue with an over tube.

Welding/brazing an insert, as long as you get the welder/torch set up correct. I suspect the braze if the materials are similar to be fine.

Question is, threads are a definite. Not that my skills in Mig TIg Stick or Oxy are lacking. Somehow I feel safer with threads and over-tubes. Maybe not as much of an issue with the +2, as listed above. They are thicker.

Comments please

[StressCraxx]

These are widely used on formula and sports racer suspensions.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group ... PENSIONFAB

I think Universal racing services will have some in the UK.

Contact Simon
http://www.universalracing.co.uk/urs.htm#Parts

[h20hamelan]

Thank You
Yes they do
I wonder a bout the threaded vs weld in style, opponents and critics please

[vstibbard]

Graeme,

I'm intrigued, is that a kit to make up an adjustable end for a front or rear wishbone with a bush rather than rose joint aka 26R?

I've been thinking about doing that for an Elan I'm running on the road and track and don't want the harshness and maintenance of rose joints.

Hows the GTS coming along?

Vaughan

[h20hamelan]

I dont see too much information about these, other than they appear to be four adjustable.
They look like CeeJays ?

I am still hoping someone has a comment or two please. On overtubes to reinforce the A arms, if I choose to thread the tubes.

[StressCraxx]

The challenging part about overtubes is obtaining the tubing that will fit snugly over the a frame tubing. It can be done, just challenging. If the OD of the A frame is 1.00", one would need a 1.005 to 1.010" ID tube to allow a slip fit prior to welding.

Probably the easiest way to accomplish is to turn and bore bar stock to the desired ID and cut off the pieces you need with a smaller bored end ID to allow sufficient threading for the rod end shank.

Consider if you want suspension attachment parts that are weaker than the lower A arm brackets on the chassis. If you measure carefully, I think you'll find the chassis pick up points are 0.050" thick, (18gauge).

The A arm tubes are sized to bend or fail before the chassis brackets. YMMV

[h20hamelan]

Good thoughts thanks!

I do wish to change the elan soon!

[661]

Graeme,

I'm intrigued, is that a kit to make up an adjustable end for a front or rear wishbone with a bush rather than rose joint aka 26R?

I've been thinking about doing that for an Elan I'm running on the road and track and don't want the harshness and maintenance of rose joints.

Hows the GTS coming along?

Vaughan

These (photo )are Elan trick bits ones and are for the inner bearings of the rear suspension A frame.
I ,like you, am looking for a road car polybush solution to the inner joints but with both being fully adjustable ( similarly to the 26R). If both inners are adjustable then the turnbuckle is not needed ( although is admittedly very easy to use for toe).
I asked Paul at Kelsport if he could make something up, he said he could, but that was 18 months ago and even after reminding I'm not sure it's on his priority list.
Spyder do them for the front arms, but I'd prefer the larger thread for the back ones.
http://www.spydercars.co.uk/lotus-elan- ... uspension/
So I'm looking at welding them up myself. I'd looked at using a rose joint and knocking out the bearing and welding on the polybush tube but this Ceejay solution looks neat. If they are just turned down bolts then I could do that too.

As for outer sleeves for the turnbuckle, it just doesn't seem like an elegant solution when a welded insert would look neater and be as strong as you need.

[vstibbard]

I agree, I want to be able to set camber and tie accurate to take advantage of modern r series tyres. I don’t feel comfortable about tensioning an old rear a frame with turn screws in rear tube.
I’ll also do same on front upper wishbones. Body, chassis, suspension setup is S2 26R just want lower maintenance and compliance fir road use and option to make it pure track car by substituting rose joints and legal capacity engine gearbox etc.
Cheers
Vaughan

[baileyman]

For what it's worth, I became concerned about harsh ride in the rear to I bought these to fit into my adjustable lowers:

https://www.suspension.com/19601
polyurethane split bushes

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 37752.html
rod ends with plastic bushes

Then suddenly the rear seemed to smooth out. Could it be the TTR shocks take about a thousand miles to wear in? So for whatever reason, I just put these on the shelf as I am no longer concerned about the ride quality front or rear with teflon Heim joints. I do get a fair amount of engine vibration, though, and I suspect that is from the polyurethane mounts.

John

[h20hamelan]

As for outer sleeves for the turnbuckle, it just doesn't seem like an elegant solution when a welded insert would look neater and be as strong as you need.

For an insert, there would be a bulbous section projecting out from the A arm. Also then, one would have a thinner turnbuckle. To me, this is where the over tube would look proper. That is, going from 1” to 1/2”. With a over tube, would it be about 1 1/4 to 3/4.

The question about strength in an old A arm (wishbone)
If putting L or R lateral forces on a old tube is the question. How does this differ if there is a inner joint, or midway turnbuckle.
My guess is, that it is all up to proper welding/brazing (penetration).
If the turnbuckle is forcing the arm, or the rod end is doing the forcing. The force is applied somewhere, most likely where it meets the trunnion. So, is this more or less depending on midway in the A arm or at the joint.
Suppose I have missed something again, so please correct my thoughts!