Rear wishbones Plus 2, worth it?
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Having just bought adjustable springs/dampers as part of my restoration have reluctantly decided I need to fork out for some new rear wishbones. Was comparing prices and see that Spydercars seem very competitively priced so phoned them up. The guy reckoned it was worth buying the adjustable toe in version. He said running at 2.5 degrees of toe in dramatically improved handling.
What do people think, worth the extra ?100?
What do people think, worth the extra ?100?
- NYK
- Third Gear
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- Joined: 27 Jul 2017
I think they are absolutely the way to go. I am so glad I went the extra dough. My car handled diabolically until they were correctly adjusted. I would not have the equipment and skills to make my own, so the Spyder parts are perfect.
HTH
Stu
HTH
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
So many reports of +2s being transformed by the fitting of adjustable arms it make one wonder how many actually handled decently in the first place.
Pressed steel chassis of dubious accuracy with handmade tubular arms. Probably just a matter of luck.
2.5 degrees (presumably each side) seems a lot of toe in. Is that the recommended figure?
Pressed steel chassis of dubious accuracy with handmade tubular arms. Probably just a matter of luck.
2.5 degrees (presumably each side) seems a lot of toe in. Is that the recommended figure?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
Being able to compensate for a ?handmade? car is probably I guess justification enough and anything on top of that a bonus. I think the 2.5 degrees was per side and was Spyder?s recommendation, hopefully some others who have done this might also comment on what setup they use.
- NYK
- Third Gear
- Posts: 417
- Joined: 27 Jul 2017
When I got mine a few years ago they were the wrong size!
The bushes at the body end wouldnt go between the mounts.
Initially Spyder tried telling me that both my original and genuine lotus chassis along with the orihinal wishbones/Lotus replacements and the dimensions in workshop manual were all wrong because they don't make mistakes!!
Eventually they did exchange them but it was a bit "black is white" for a while.
So just throw a tape at them when they arrive before you strip anything off or waiting until you build.
They are a great product though.
The bushes at the body end wouldnt go between the mounts.
Initially Spyder tried telling me that both my original and genuine lotus chassis along with the orihinal wishbones/Lotus replacements and the dimensions in workshop manual were all wrong because they don't make mistakes!!
Eventually they did exchange them but it was a bit "black is white" for a while.
So just throw a tape at them when they arrive before you strip anything off or waiting until you build.
They are a great product though.
Last edited by MarkDa on Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Ordered mine about a month ago - they arrived quickly and are now on the car. I installed powerflex poly bushings, and had no issues with either bushing fit or fit to chassis or strut housing - all just as expected.
I've only had it out for a quick ride as I have some other work to complete so can't speak to ultimate impact, but the quality of the bones I received was very good - well built with clean welds, etc. and the adjusting mechanism seemingly quite solid. They come powder-coated a fairly flat black, and my experience with powder-coating is that it tends to come off with the slightest abrasion, so I did give mine the POR15 course of cleaning, treating, and painting (gloss black) in hopes of gaining a little more protection and rust prevention.
Have been trying to decide how best to protect the adjusting components once it is setup the way I want it - what are others using? Is wrapping it with a densyl tape a viable long-lasting option?
I've only had it out for a quick ride as I have some other work to complete so can't speak to ultimate impact, but the quality of the bones I received was very good - well built with clean welds, etc. and the adjusting mechanism seemingly quite solid. They come powder-coated a fairly flat black, and my experience with powder-coating is that it tends to come off with the slightest abrasion, so I did give mine the POR15 course of cleaning, treating, and painting (gloss black) in hopes of gaining a little more protection and rust prevention.
Have been trying to decide how best to protect the adjusting components once it is setup the way I want it - what are others using? Is wrapping it with a densyl tape a viable long-lasting option?
Henry
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
- SENC
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Are you sure they are powder coated? I asked them last night if they were and they said not. They said it had two coats of primer followed by top coat. With regard protecting the adjusters following set up, how about POR15 followed by a wrap in self amalgamating tape. You would need to cut it off with a scalpel or similar but it would seal it pretty well.
- NYK
- Third Gear
- Posts: 417
- Joined: 27 Jul 2017
No, I'm not certain and made an assumption based on appearance, including a few areas where the black had scraped off and clean metal made apparent. If 3 three coats, they were certainly thin ones! Regardless, you will likely want to recoat - mine both look better and are more substantially protected with POR15 and top coat.
Henry
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
69 Elan S4
65 Seven S2
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POR15 doesn't like DOT4 brake fluid...
John
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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