Lotus Elan

Steering rack on plus 2

PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Apr 14, 2018 8:00 am

More maint..

While i have the rad out i have great access to the steering.
I have noticed splits in the rubber gaitors and i never really liked the idea of the flexible coupling either. So while its apart ill look at replacing all 3 items.
Question tho is, having got this far, should i remove the rack and give it a service/rebuild.?
Are replacement rack components available?
Should i replace the rack mounting rubbers with standard, poly, or solid?
Im thinking while its out, may as well go and do a propper job.

Any thoughts from those that have done simmilar recently?, i think i looked as far back as 2004.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat Apr 14, 2018 8:28 am

Paul
If there's any play , fix it , if not clean and paint it .
Replace the rubbery disc thingy with a U/J , there are different sizes available , the smaller the better ( it may rub on the bottom hose if I remember correctly ) I even shaved a little more off the edges with an angle grinder...
I fitted solid mountings ( waste of time ) and the next time I had access replaced them with poly....suggest you do the same.

Others may agree/disagree...

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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Apr 14, 2018 8:42 am

John

Thanks buddy, appreciated. I was thinking poly too, i do intend to swap over to poly for alot of the bushes. At ?425 for a new rack id rather not if not required. Its coming out for inspection and a clean when i get the rubbers. Thing is if its got play, how do i fix it?
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PostPost by: steve.thomas » Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:15 am

Paul
I did this on my Plus 2 a few weeks ago to eliminate some play in one of the inner track rod ball joints. The joint uses shims and a lock ring to get the correct setting. It was quite straightforward and is covered in the manual and Brian Buckland book quite well. The parts are available from SJ Sportscars and probably others. Hardest part was getting the new rubber gaiters on - one end is a very tight fit.

If you have the later collapsible steering column you probably need to undo the clamp in the footwell to slide the inner column away from the rack when you remove the flexible joint. There seems to be a lot of debate and no conclusion as to the torque settings for the clamp and grub screw. After reading as much as I could find my own conclusion was that the clamp itself merely stops the two halves of the column separating and therefore does not need to be excessively tight. The grub screw should exert enough force to stop the column moving if you pull up on the steering wheel, but must allow the column to slide in the event of a front impact. (Apologies if you already know this).
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PostPost by: Donels » Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:20 am

I rebuilt my steering rack last year and it?s not too difficult if you?re a reasonable engineer. The parts you are most likely to require are the shims for the ball joints and possibly shims for the pinion, these are all available. For rebuild just follow the manual instructions. I am using new rubber mounts. Solid or poly are ok if you?re racing but for the road rubber gives a little more compliance and a good life if not soaked in oil.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:30 am

Thanks.

Im assuming its a triumph unit?

At least SJ seem to be more reasonable on the price. Almost half the other 2 i looked at.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:45 am

Triumph Herald with additions to the ball joints to limit travel, plus those threaded extension bars on the ends of the arms.

I've replaced the U/J on the column and I found it needed to be tightened up quite a bit to get a decent clamp on the rack input shaft splines. Once fitted I checked for play - there was none that I could discern - and moved on to the next job.

I used one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370144440653
Last edited by JonB on Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Sat Apr 14, 2018 10:56 am

So probably not a straight swap. Looks like I'll take mine out and give it a good clean and service. My trip to CC is rapidly disappearing.
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sun Apr 15, 2018 12:44 am

Neednt spend that much in the rack.
If you don't feel confident about doing refurb yourself then either exchange or send away for rebuild.
I used Kiley Clinton in B'ham - they put in a new rack as I'd bent mine in a shunt and charged me half what Mattys charge and they do his!
At a push they may do while you wait by appointment.
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PostPost by: Chrispy » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:42 am

john.p.clegg wrote: I fitted solid mountings ( waste of time ) and the next time I had access replaced them with poly....suggest you do the same.


What didn't you like about the sold mounts? They were on my car when I got them, but have not complaints...
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Apr 15, 2018 5:37 am

Chris
They transmitted every vibration from the chassis to the steering wheel...

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PostPost by: jono » Tue Apr 17, 2018 2:54 pm

If your pulling the rack might be worth checking bump steer while you on with it.
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