Oversteer on corners

[Craven]

Not to worry you too much but these pics were posted some time back.
I think this failure was the reason for the mod to a through tube and gusset.

foto-2.jpg (56.14 KiB) Viewed 3806 times

foto-1.jpg (51.43 KiB) Viewed 3806 times

[mbell]

So, should I get my early Spyder chassis without the gusset plates modified, the chassis is circa 1985 but has never been back on the road since installed?
Hopefully on the road in the next few months.

I would probably have a chat with Spyder about it. They likely to be able to give you a better feel for how frequently it happened and whether they feel it is really needed or not.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Thanks for the info, I have to call Spyder on another matter so will ask about it. Mine appears to be slightly different in that mine has a single tube going right through the cross member. I?m sure about that as I fitted the chassis and spindles and made sure there was plenty of copper slip in the tube and on the spindle!

[JonB]

The Gusset is there due to a number of chassis failure in that area on early spyder chassis without the gusset.

Interesting. How does it lend strength? Is it thicker material than the cross member?

[john.p.clegg]

Spreads the stress over a larger area..

John

[JonB]

That much I realised. The gusset must be thicker than the cross member, though. Otherwise the stresses would be applied to a material that is no stronger than the cross member. Does that make sense?

Still.. if you didn't have gussets and you had a failsafe vacuum system for operating your headlight pods, you'd have an early warning system for stress failure - your lights would pop up suddenly as you were driving along.

Alternatively, they'd drop if you were driving in the dark and you were on a non failsafe setup.

Err...

[Bigbaldybloke]

Been there, done that! That?s how I discovered my original chassis was corroded and that?s why it?s off the road now, I started replacing the chassis in 1985 and am near to finishing it in 2018, is that a record?

[Peter +2]

I think the reason the gusset is there is to allow the tube to be adjusted in the jig prior to welding. You couldn't do that with the tube alone as it would lead to gaps where you needed to weld.

Now, as I cannot weld a nut to my spindle thanks to me not being able to weld at all, I ordered a stud extractor in the hopes I can use it to apply rotational torque to the spindle.

This one in fact: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173146694645

Dunno if it will help but it wasn't too expensive.

Jon,

I have used this type:
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-to ... EN5829480K

It was not a big as job as yours but what I liked about using this type of extractor was that all the force is "in line" as it rotatates on the same axis as the stud. I think mine was made by Sykes Pickavent.

At the other end of the scale there this type of "Induction heat tool"

https://youtu.be/gFh8Pci5gpc

I do not know wether they can be hired but I imagine there very expensive.

We all share you pain on this predicamnet and have our fingers crossed that you succeed.

All the best

Peter

[JonB]

===== G A M E O V E R =====

The new stud extractor turned up this afternoon and I got home and tried it out. It's got tremendous grip and bite, gouging the spindle with teeth marks. I applied quite a bit of force with a breaker bar and the tool rotated and did not slip. However, the spindle didn't rotate, and so it is now twisted along its axis and visibly bent. Any more force applied and it will shear off, which means I will not be able to move the car to get it onto a trailer, because I will not be able to bolt up even one lower arm. Please don't say "use a jack", it is not practical here as the tiny wheels will catch on every minor imperfection on my garage floor and driveway. The car will not roll on a jack.

So now I'm pretty well screwed. Can't risk drilling it. I'll have to take it to Spyder. That means, fit a towbar to my car (?1000) and hire a trailer (?100) then use a day or two of precious holiday to get it 160 miles away to Spyder and pay them to fix it (?300? ?500?), then drive it home. Always assuming my car actually has the towing capacity, and I can drive it safely there and back. The alternative is to get the car transported (?350 each way, at least).

God. What a nightmare. What an absolute NIGHTMARE.

[pauljones]

Jon

I paid 165 for a two day hire of a car transporter. That was last year to bring my 2nd one back home.
Was the type with a fixed bed and a winch. I think i got 80 miles a day with it,

[USA64]

Another 1000 you could get a brand new (Lotus) chassis!

[Bigbaldybloke]

Sorry to hear that Jon, we?ve all been rooting for you, but looks like the end of the line.
Check out your local car hire places, may well be cheaper to hire a car with a tow bar already fitted than have one fitted to your car. You may find you can hire a trailer plus tow car together from somewhere.
Look at www.transporterhire.co.uk, several depots in the south, from ?105 a day self drive, for recovery vehicle type transporters

[billwill]

Perhaps you can get it onto a trailer using something with bigger wheels than a trolley jack. Something like this:

They are quite expensive so see if you can hire one.

https://www.theworkplacedepot.co.uk/trucks-and-trolleys


Unless you have other uses for a tow hook later, it would probably be cheaper to rent a car with a hook (and even a driver).

[Hawksfield]

JonB
Bad news that u cannot get it out I hope things get better with the rest of the work

[USA64]

"you've got to know when to hold them, know when to fold them...". I wasn't being glib; I am now undoing several weeks work on my rear suspension courtesy of a busted caliper (see caliper entry). Add another 1000 on top of my 50% over budget restoration (see cost of restoration entry). This is all for fun right? That's your mantra; keep repeating it!