Lotus Elan

Another post about uprights / trunnions

PostPost by: Davidb » Fri Dec 08, 2017 9:12 pm

As was the AH 3000 and cousins.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:39 am

Today a nice new pair of uprights arrived from CC. They look quality, with good machining around the kingpin.

I trial fitted the trunnions. One of them will go in all the way, but it is tight. The other only goes in about half way (with effort) then locks up. I cannot wind it in any more with my hands.

Is this normal? Are we expected to "wear in" the trunnion by winding it on and off the kingpin, with the tougher steel cutting the tread in the brass trunnion?

I'm a bit annoyed. My wager is that the trunnions are low quality, and I do see some burring in the thread and opening.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:26 pm

Is the tight one for the righthand side or the lefthand.
I hope it is the one with the righthand thread then maybe you can buy a tap to clean away the burrs.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:42 pm

JonB wrote:Is this normal? Are we expected to "wear in" the trunnion by winding it on and off the kingpin, with the tougher steel cutting the tread in the brass trunnion?


No it is not normal. You are supposed to spin them on to the top , then back of to allow a minimum of 60 degree swing. Obviously the more contact the better.
If the steel was intended to recut the brass where would all the swarf go?

Have you tried your old trunnions on the new upright, just to ensure there is no problem with them.

Sorry Jon - send them back for a refund and maybe get trunnions from CC?
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:24 pm

I'm feeling guilty now as I suggested the original source - sorry.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:26 pm

Yeah refund is what I was thinking. I only have one of the old trunnions in one piece anyway.

Problem is, I cannot find the receipt / delivery note, and can't recall where I got them from.

Honestly, it's one thing after another with this car! :evil:
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:26 pm

MarkDa wrote:I'm feeling guilty now as I suggested the original source - sorry.


Remind me Mark, I forgot!
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:33 pm

MEV?
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Dec 09, 2017 1:35 pm

Yeah that's them, I located your post. Don't feel guilty!

I'll give them a call. Found the PayPal invoice in my inbox (sadly, does not list the parts).
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:20 pm

JonB wrote:Honestly, it's one thing after another with this car! :evil:


Been there Jon! I'd advise a short break, walk away for a day or so.

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:32 pm

Take a break Jon, take your time and try to stay zen.
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PostPost by: JonB » Sat Dec 09, 2017 5:57 pm

Yeah, I walked.

Somehow I need to get the stub axles free of these knackered uprights. I had a go with a limp hammer and heat gun but all that did was muller the nut. I can see myself ordering a new pair of axles nex, just because I cannot get these out. Sigh.
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PostPost by: Chancer » Sat Dec 09, 2017 6:48 pm

You hit the upright not the stub axle, think of it like breaking the taper on a ball joint.

More impact if you do it in situ, one lump hammer one side as a reaction block and give the other side of the uppright the good news with the other lump hammer, slacken off the nut beforehand.

If all else fails then disc cut off the uprights, the less shonky new parts you have to fit the better.

It should not be hard to meet the quality standards of the British motor industry in the 60's, they were certainly not much to write home about but why bother when you are a modern aftermarket manufacturer, if it looks the part and is cheap your customers will be delighted to flog your tight trunnions and cheese rotaflexes to the rest of us.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:12 pm

Hardly likely to work if your hammer's limp. Probably the cold! :shock:
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PostPost by: SENC » Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:57 pm

:lol: :lol:
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