New ideas in removing rack and pinion Elan S2

[loueelotus]

Hi,
I want to recondition my steering rack and pinion on my Elan S2 this winter because there is a steering wheel shimmy starting at about 100 KPH lightly (~60 MPH) then goes away and returns at about 110 to 120 KPH more noticeably (~76 MPH) then goes away again.

And to top it of on some days it is not very noticeably it seems to not be there, or very lightly. Very weird.. But the most important thing is that if I am turning at that same speed it seem to go away most of the time, the brakes are new and all components are tight.

So I was wondering if anyone found a way to remove rack without cutting 2 holes in he floor under the radiator.

Or to avoid the reconditioning of the rack would someone know why this is happening..

Regards,
Lou

[types26/36]

I dont think is is possible to remove the rack clamps on the S1/S2 without cutting some access holes, I presume you have seen the section regarding the access holes in the workshop manual?
I think the only other way would be to lift the body.
Regarding your steering vibration, does the rack have free play in it? there are some adjustments you can make without removing the rack although steering vibration sounds more like a wheel/tyre balancing issue to me.

[loueelotus]

Hi types26/36. Thanks for your input,

I keep thinking it may be the wheel / tire but they have need re-balanced a few time it still the issue . Though I have on the car now old original magnesium minilites.. The steering wheel free movement is about 3/8 to 1/4 of an inch. its weird how its intermitant..

Lou

[ericbushby]

Lou,
Have you checked the wheels for shape errors. Weight errors can be balanced out but shape errors can not.
Check them for axial and radial distortion.
On the Elan steel wheels the limit is 0.050" radial and axial run out, but at that limit it may not be possible to prevent vibration.
A knock on a curb can buckle the wheel slightly and it can not be balanced out. It would have to be straightened.
Best of luck.
Eric in Burnley
S3SE DHC

[nmauduit]

I would try to get the wheels properly balanced : not all shops work equally well (they should be able to do better than 5g since the balancing machine can usually see 1g, but most do worse than 10g), and balance goes away as tire get worn out... If you have a somewhat stiff suspension, an impulse from the road at the resonant frequency (which occurs at a given speed for a given wheel diameter) will start the shimmy - then some (most ?) roads have ripples (esp. the sides where trucks go), which also can trigger some shimmy.

If you have some slack in the steering, it will be free to develop, but even if you don't the shaking steering wheel shows that something is likely to will wear out prematurely if nothing is done to it.

[types26/36]

Lou,
Have you tried changing the front wheels to the rear and vice versa, if the "vibration period" is changed it would indicate the problem is with the wheels and not rack related.
Play in the steering wheel would more likely indicate a defective tie rod end, a loose clamp (steering shaft to pinion) or loose rack mountings to me but not impossible to be rack related.
Of course it could be a "little" of everything, get someone to move the steering wheel free play while you check the tie rod ends/rack ball joints and all other components for "jumping" or free play.
If you can find someone who balances the wheels while still on the car it is an advantage but unfortunately it seems not many places can do it any more.

[loueelotus]

Hi,

I just checked the steering wheel free movement is about 1/4 or less of an inch.. I moved the wheels to the back several months ago and it seemed worse if I remember correctly. This seems to be the best. That is why I do not understand .. and the wheel shimmy is intermittent when on the road about 60 MPH.. I wish there was a company that would balancing on the car anyways I will look into one if it exists.. I will look in to to best place to balance them again.. I will look into shape errors too..

I want to fix it before something wears out from the shimmy.. If it has not already..

Thanks,
Lou

[alan.barker]

If your car stays in your garage for several weeks without moving there will be flats on the tyres.
Alan

[2cams70]

"Old original magnesium Minilites". Have you checked them for cracks? Magnesium wheels have a shelf life.

[RichardHawkins]

Lou,

Eric suggested you check the shape of the wheels, and he is quite right when he says you cannot correct a mis shapen wheel by balancing. You also mention that the problem is reduced when cornering. Are the wheel bearings ok?

Richard Hawkins

[alan.barker]

+1 check end float on front wheel bearings
Alan

[loueelotus]

Hi,
I will look into all your suggestions But first I found a balancing machine that seems to mimic the on car balancing type of machine which at this time I can not find. It is called the Road Force Elite It seems as though It can check the balancing well.. It is a rare piece of machinery but there are a couple in the city What are your opinions on this machine?

Lou.

[jonesa62]

If your steering has v little play and you can influence the outcome with a front to rear tyre/wheel combination swap, it?s logical it?s a tyre/wheel problem. The rack itself won?t vibrate - it?s bolts to the chassis. Check it is still firm.

I have had a similar problem in Australia after a number of heat cycles with old tyres. I suggest either borrowing a set of alternate wheels/tyres to see if that alleviates the shudder.

[TomR]

Lou, I had a Renault Turbo 2 with vibration issues with new tires. After several other attempts at balancing/truing I went to someone with a force balancer. It was a huge improvement and I highly recommend it over standard spin balancing. I suspect the tire (Avon CR500) has some internal issue but the balancer figured it out. TomR

[loueelotus]

Thank you all for your input.. I will take it consideration and will work on it during the winter months..

Regards,
Lou