creak from right rear wheel

[andyhay]

Hi All

I have a creaking noise coming from the right rear wheel of my plus 2 and am having some trouble locating the cause. Bouncing the suspension does not cause the noise and nor does pushing the car back and forwards. It seems to only happen when there is a change in torque through the drive shafts, both when I accelerate and take my foot off the accelerator. I have sprayed some WD40 around with no impact.
The car has elan trikbits drive shafts - not sure if they require regular lubrication?

Any ides would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Andy

[rgh0]

I would have a look at the A frame bushes as it sounds like the changing acceleration thrust load that he A frame takes is causing the creak.

cheers
Rohan

[andyhay]

Thanks Rohan. I will check the bushes. It really sounds as though it's coming from the wheel itself so I might inspect the axle nut as well. I found an old post with someone saying they had a creak due to a loose axle nut.

Would I need to pull the a frames off to lubricate the bushes?

Andy.

[gus]

A loose wheel makes that kind of noise for me

[rgh0]

Thanks Rohan. I will check the bushes. It really sounds as though it's coming from the wheel itself so I might inspect the axle nut as well. I found an old post with someone saying they had a creak due to a loose axle nut.

Would I need to pull the a frames off to lubricate the bushes?

Andy.

The standard bushes are a steel inner and outer sleeve with rubber in between - so no need to lubricate, if the rubber fails they can creak. You can get poly bushes that use a urethane compound bush with a steel inner sleeve and this may creak as it moves on the urethane bush

cheers
Rohan

[StressCraxx]

A loose axle nut is a good possibility. If you find the nut is loose, remove the hub from the shaft. Perform a very careful inspection of the stub shaft, taper and keyway, plus the inside of the hub. Fretting of the taper or keyway could cause a stress raiser and eventual fatigue failure.

What type of wheels do you have? Alloy or steel?
If a steel wheel, try switching the wheels from side to side or front to rear. If you have steel wheels, it's possible the rivets holding the center to the rim have come loose and are working within the center. Switching wheels may eliminate one possibility.

Other possibilities:
Loose bearing fit in upright
Bearing shield or seal rub.

[andyhay]

I have steel wheels but they are welded rather than riveted. I will check the stub shaft.

When I tighten the nut again can I do it with the wheel on ? Do I need the breaks on to stop the hub turning?

Thanks.

[Hawksfield]

Andy

Check the top diff top bushes for a cracked mounting flange. you will have to remove the rear seat GRP base and look carefully at the top of the mounting bolt flanges, if in doubt remove the bolts and see if the either flange can be removed or is broken. What happens is one side of the retaining flanges cracks and breaks but is not noticeable if you lever the diff from below.

You don't need to ask how I know this

[rgh0]

Andy

Check the top diff top bushes for a cracked mounting flange. you will have to remove the rear seat GRP base and look carefully at the top of the mounting bolt flanges, if in doubt remove the bolts and see if the either flange can be removed or is broken. What happens is one side of the retaining flanges cracks and breaks but is not noticeable if you lever the diff from below.

You don't need to ask how I know this

yes I have had the same thing - did not think of that

cheers
Rohan

[andyhay]

Thanks for all the advice. It was the rear wheel hub nuts. They tightened up quite a bit ( a full turn) and the noise is fixed. I couldn't inspect the taper as I couldn't pull the hub off. Hopefully no damage was done. It was only creaking for very limited use. Next time I have it in a workshop I'll have them inspected.
Now I am rattle and creak free and the car is driving beautifully. Hope it lasts.

Thanks again.