Rear Suspension
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Does the hub / rear strut look OK? For some reason it looks strange to me.
Most of it looks quite recent, how does anything get so rusty so fast?
Most of it looks quite recent, how does anything get so rusty so fast?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
It doesn't help when they salt/grit the roads after snow...I usually wait for the rains to wash it away before venturing out.
John
John
-
john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Grizzly wrote:Looks like an early fabricated Spyder hub carrier (note it has a large weld across it in the first picture)
I knew it looked different! Is an early spyder hub a good thing or a potential problem?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
vincereynard wrote:Grizzly wrote:Looks like an early fabricated Spyder hub carrier (note it has a large weld across it in the first picture)
I knew it looked different! Is an early spyder hub a good thing or a potential problem?
I've never fitted them myself but a friend has some on a 2 seater (his are the early Pre Double wishbone type) he says their more substantially made and a good upgrade (he decided to swap because he had a caliper mounting fail on his Alloy original casting, so when he came to replace it he compare the two types and ultimately preferred the spyder versions)
Chris
-
Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1862
- Joined: 13 Jun 2010
The universal joint style of rear axle conversions I have seen have been supplied by the manufacturer without paint or any other form of corrosion protection. Given that, rust in that area should be no surprise.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
-
CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1546
- Joined: 09 Nov 2006
If I was to buy the car, swapping the U/J driveshafts would be an early modification.
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
The appearance is of a car that has spent a long time in storage in a damp garage and then recently recommissioned, or maybe just moved around a bit. This is how you get a lot of heavy rust on the discs that is only partially cut back by the pads -- the surface of the disk is pitted and until the pits are ground off will keep the pad from fully contacting the surface.
In that scenario, expect rapid and uneven wear on the pads and plan to replace them once they're done cleaning the disc up.
An environment where road salt is present might create this scenario over winter storage. The rust on the UJs is longer term but of little consequence until you go to replace the joints. Kroil is your friend in that scenario and it wouldn't hurt to start using it now on all those rusty studs holding things together, but keep it off your discs and pads.
In that scenario, expect rapid and uneven wear on the pads and plan to replace them once they're done cleaning the disc up.
An environment where road salt is present might create this scenario over winter storage. The rust on the UJs is longer term but of little consequence until you go to replace the joints. Kroil is your friend in that scenario and it wouldn't hurt to start using it now on all those rusty studs holding things together, but keep it off your discs and pads.
- denicholls2
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 552
- Joined: 23 Jan 2006
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests