Lotus Elan

Rear Suspension

PostPost by: vincereynard » Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:49 pm

Does the hub / rear strut look OK? For some reason it looks strange to me.

Most of it looks quite recent, how does anything get so rusty so fast?

screenhunter_01-mar.-30-23.44.jpg and


screenhunter_02-mar.-30-23.45.jpg and
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PostPost by: john1180 » Wed Mar 30, 2016 11:22 pm

Sticking caliper or handbrake could be causing excessive heat
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Mar 31, 2016 6:22 am

It doesn't help when they salt/grit the roads after snow...I usually wait for the rains to wash it away before venturing out.

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PostPost by: Grizzly » Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:15 am

Looks like an early fabricated Spyder hub carrier (note it has a large weld across it in the first picture)
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PostPost by: PaulRB » Thu Mar 31, 2016 10:27 am

Mine looked like that its the liquid salt road treatment that is now used
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu Mar 31, 2016 11:56 am

Grizzly wrote:Looks like an early fabricated Spyder hub carrier (note it has a large weld across it in the first picture)


I knew it looked different! Is an early spyder hub a good thing or a potential problem?
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Thu Mar 31, 2016 12:07 pm

it'll just take "de-rusting" and some new paint!! 2hrs each side!! - leave the discs as are, as they do the work themselves! sandy
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Thu Mar 31, 2016 1:46 pm

vincereynard wrote:
Grizzly wrote:Looks like an early fabricated Spyder hub carrier (note it has a large weld across it in the first picture)


I knew it looked different! Is an early spyder hub a good thing or a potential problem?

I've never fitted them myself but a friend has some on a 2 seater (his are the early Pre Double wishbone type) he says their more substantially made and a good upgrade (he decided to swap because he had a caliper mounting fail on his Alloy original casting, so when he came to replace it he compare the two types and ultimately preferred the spyder versions)
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Mar 31, 2016 2:02 pm

The universal joint style of rear axle conversions I have seen have been supplied by the manufacturer without paint or any other form of corrosion protection. Given that, rust in that area should be no surprise.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu Mar 31, 2016 3:03 pm

If I was to buy the car, swapping the U/J driveshafts would be an early modification.
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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Fri Apr 01, 2016 3:07 pm

The appearance is of a car that has spent a long time in storage in a damp garage and then recently recommissioned, or maybe just moved around a bit. This is how you get a lot of heavy rust on the discs that is only partially cut back by the pads -- the surface of the disk is pitted and until the pits are ground off will keep the pad from fully contacting the surface.

In that scenario, expect rapid and uneven wear on the pads and plan to replace them once they're done cleaning the disc up.

An environment where road salt is present might create this scenario over winter storage. The rust on the UJs is longer term but of little consequence until you go to replace the joints. Kroil is your friend in that scenario and it wouldn't hurt to start using it now on all those rusty studs holding things together, but keep it off your discs and pads.
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