Engine bay handbrake adjuster
8 posts
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Oh no tried to loosen this off and only broke it off,any idea how to overcome this,I take it the part of chassis it goes through is threaded,even if I got new handbrake cable I would have to get bit of adjuster out of that part,hindsight tells me I should have checked this before putting engine in ,never had a hindsight course?????
- el torro
- Second Gear
- Posts: 184
- Joined: 02 Aug 2013
Did you loosen off the jam nut before trying to adjust the fitting?
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
main reason I left mine alone......
just wondering.....tapping might be a bit awkward......drilling out won't be that easy either......
maybe use a longer adjuster from another h/brake cable [e.g. ford anglia?] and go through the mounting hole with nuts on both sides?
just a thought..
fred ..
just wondering.....tapping might be a bit awkward......drilling out won't be that easy either......
maybe use a longer adjuster from another h/brake cable [e.g. ford anglia?] and go through the mounting hole with nuts on both sides?
just a thought..
fred ..
'Never give up!....unless it's hopeless.....'
1970 S4 dhc big valve
1973 Ginetta G15
1967 Ginetta G4 [sadly now sold]
1959 lotus elite type 14
1970 S4 dhc big valve
1973 Ginetta G15
1967 Ginetta G4 [sadly now sold]
1959 lotus elite type 14
- Elanconvert
- Third Gear
- Posts: 344
- Joined: 26 Jul 2013
Because the outer cable finishes at the front of the car....
John
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
...and of course if the adjuster was at the rear it wouldn't be lubricated by the incontinence of the engine. I do feel for you though; try a bit of heat and lots of lube / WD40 / penetrating oil on the chassis mount, leave it for a day and then more heat and jam something you can turn into the seized bit - like a file tang or a screwdriver - with a bit of luck and a following wind it will come out without stripping the thread in the chassis.
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
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Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 604
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
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