Lotus Elan

Solutions to restrict rear suspension travel/droop

PostPost by: mariodschy » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:48 am

I've changed to the narrow 2,5" springs which are only 10" long, now i've the problem that the springs fall out of the spring mount if the car is in full droop so i've to restrict the travel like it's recommend if you change to CV Driveshaft.
I am now searching of a good solution, the best would be to install dampers with shortened damper rods but this is to late for me, i still have new Spax (bought with the car...)

It would be nice to see what solutions are still out there, please let me know your ideas/pictures.
Thanks.
Mario
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:08 am

a stainless cable can be run in a loop between top and bottom plate (there may already be a water evacuation hole in the bottom one), and adjusted to the desired length when locking the cable using a fixture like

serre-cable-plat-a-1-et-2-boulons-inox.jpg and


which you would find at a ship chandler or construction shop. Cheaper than a special shock if not as clean, but would do for a while (you may wont to check the cable for wear if you go airborne quite often).
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PostPost by: mariodschy » Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:18 am

Yes a stainless cable maybe is the solution but the fixing points are not clear, specifically the bottom fixing point is a problem, because there are only 2 alloy nuts to adjust the ride high, there is no place to drill a hole...
IMG_7678.JPG and
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: webbslinger » Tue Aug 04, 2015 1:34 pm

I didn't get the memo on limited travel shocks either. I used 3/16 Kevlar line thinking it would be quieter than cables. I made eyes on both ends and hung the top eye over the body to frame bolt at the top of the tower. That gives the line a bit of an angle to stay clear of the springs. On the bottom I attached the line to a clip that goes around the strut tube under the perch. I know that's the point you are interested in and I could send you a picture later today if you'd like. It's pretty funky but at least I'm not replacing a cv boot every time I lift the car.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Aug 04, 2015 4:46 pm

I think this is Rohan's solution
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PostPost by: elj221c » Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:05 pm

mariodschy wrote:I am now searching of a good solution, the best would be to install dampers with shortened damper rods


It is the only proper engineered solution.

Bits of cable with assorted clips and clamps.....?

Horrible!
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Tue Aug 04, 2015 7:52 pm

elj221c wrote:
mariodschy wrote:I am now searching of a good solution, the best would be to install dampers with shortened damper rods


It is the only proper engineered solution.

Bits of cable with assorted clips and clamps.....?

Horrible!


This is the ultimate solution, providing you have a Spyder chassis.... Not cheap though http://www.spydercars.co.uk/lotus-elan- ... on-system/

Image

Lotus Elan & +2 Spyder Twin Wishbone Rear Suspension System (RSC)

Our sophisticated rear suspension conversion offers remarkable improvements in reliability, handling and road holding. It takes full advantage of the latest tyre technology, exploiting lower aspect ratio tyres to the optimum.



Irritants such as leaking rear struts, perished bump rubbers and broken circlip grooves in the bearing housings are a thing of the past. The rubber drive couplings have an easier life too, as rear wheel travel has been reduced to 6?. The RSC also overcomes the difficulty of finding those obsolete or obsolescent rear end parts such as strut tubes, alloy hub carriers, upper spring seats etc. The lotocones ? items which, more often than not, are supplied nowadays with non-original and incorrect tapered inner sleeves ? are replaced by simple rubber bushings in the upper ends of the spring damper units.



The RSC is easy to install and uses bushings, bearings and dampers already common to other Lotus cars.


starts at ?850 + VAT
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PostPost by: patrics » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:43 pm

Mario
Why do anything? The suspension will probably never unload that much why not just try it and see if it is a problem.
If you feel you must to something:
Fit a spacer between lower support and spring
Fit a helper spring
Sell springs and buy longer ones - springs are cheap
Buy TTR dampers

Alan, do you have shares in spyder?

Regards
Steve
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:49 pm

elj221c wrote:
mariodschy wrote:I am now searching of a good solution, the best would be to install dampers with shortened damper rods


It is the only proper engineered solution.

Bits of cable with assorted clips and clamps.....?

Horrible!



I agree that less shock travel is probably the best solution and I have that on my car now. However i would not knock bits of cable and clamps - have a look next time you drive over a suspension bridge at what holds its up. This is the lightest way to actually build a bridge in the true Lotus tradition.! :lol:

cheers
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:55 am

patrics wrote:
Alan, do you have shares in spyder?

Regards
Steve


Nope! :lol:

But I am a Fan of theirs.......
Kindest regards

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PostPost by: quaybook » Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:51 pm

To restrict droop for my CV jointed drive shafts I have a simple solution which has worked without fault on my car for some years. A 1" wide webbing luggage strap cut to length and looped over the top of the suspension turret, with each end clamped to the suspension upright below the spring. I have used good quality stainless Jubillee (spiral) hose clips to clamp the webbing to the upright. No holes to drill in your car, easily adjustable maximum droop, very light and cheap ( it is a Lotus). The breaking strain of the luggage strap webbing is of the order of 225kg and, as it is doubled and the damper avoids shock loads, this is plenty.

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PostPost by: mariodschy » Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:58 am

Thanks guys for sharing your ideas.

@quaybook: would it be possible to post a picture please?
@Rohan's solution: looks very simple but i definitiv avoid welding or drilling direktly on the chassis
- 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint LHD/DHC
- 1962 Austin Healey Sprite MK II - Sold 09.05.2016

Sorry for my bad survival English ;-)
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:58 am

Could I clarify the reason for limiting suspension droop?

I understood it was a good idea to do this if you have CV joints and that to avoid damage to the joints you would want to limit droop when lifting the car for maintenance? This would also help for Rotoflexes to reduce possible over flexing damage when lifting the car.

Assuming the above is correct, then the lightest piece of stainless steel wire and clamps that will support the weight of the suspension is all that's needed.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu Aug 06, 2015 1:21 pm

Unless you like taking hump-back bridges at speed....

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Thu Aug 06, 2015 1:32 pm

john.p.clegg wrote:Unless you like taking hump-back bridges at speed....

John :wink:

:lol:

Visions of a Triumph Herald that did just that in front of me 30 years ago just went through my mind. It was like watching somebody clapping their hands. Dreadful mess had to be cleared up on the road as well as on the drivers seat.

Looked a bit like this but worse
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