Plus 2 suspension/brake rebuild problem No. 3

[dunclentdr]

Managed to get the rebuilt suspension and braking system on recently purchased Plus 2 today and have been advised of some problems - here is No.3 and hoping for advice on resolution.

The inner bearing circlips are missing (see photos) with the result that the bearing sits nearer the outer rim of the housing. It is not clear whether this is because the channel that the circlips sits in is missing.

I am advised that this will mean the bearings mover around/have play within the housing and I guess at best that means early wear and replacements. Woud like to avoid major strip down - any ideas!!!

Thanks

David

[rgh0]

Hard to tell what's going on. But you should have a circlip and dirt shield there and not be able to see the bearing. The inner bearing must be positively located by the circlip on the shaft and on the hub . I would not drive the car without it.

However I am not familiar with the CV conversion that has been fitted ( do you know who made it?) and it is not clear what mods have been made as it does not attach directly to the stub axle arms via a simple adapter plate with the stud bolts going outwards or bolts screwing directly into the plate from the outside per the usual conversions I have seen.

You need to pull it apart to find out what's going on. If the stub axle and bearing are standard and are assembled correctly then the whole shaft assembly in the hub is to far inwards and the brake calliper should then not fit the disk????

sorry but looks like some extensive work to investigate and sort out

cheers
Rohan

[Plus 2]

Hard to tell what's going on. But you should have a circlip and dirt shield there and not be able to see the bearing. The inner bearing must be positively located by the circlip on the shaft and on the hub . I would not drive the car without it.

However I am not familiar with the CV conversion that has been fitted ( do you know who made it?) and it is not clear what mods have been made as it does not attach directly to the stub axle arms via a simple adapter plate with the stud bolts going outwards or bolts screwing directly into the plate from the outside per the usual conversions I have seen.

You need to pull it apart to find out what's going on. If the stub axle and bearing are standard and are assembled correctly then the whole shaft assembly in the hub is to far inwards and the brake calliper should then not fit the disk????

sorry but looks like some extensive work to investigate and sort out

cheers
Rohan

David,

Totally agree here with Rohan.

You need to strip this down to understand what has happened when it was built up and supply some additional pictures. Hopefully no-one has just 'loctited' that bearing into the hub or onto the shaft. The lack of the circlip/bearing sidewall retention into the groove will be placing an excessive load on the outer bearing inner hub shoulder. Also if the inner bearing is not seated hard up against the inner hub wall this will be putting an excessive load on the outer bearing circlip/groove. I would also want to see what has been done on the outer bearing anyway.

I would not assume the circlip groove is missing just perhaps the bearing has not been seated properly and possibly is coming out which means the hub shaft is coming out with it as the bearing sits up tight to a shoulder on the hub shaft. Just does not all seem possible with the very tight proximity of the brake disc to the lower bicyle frame arms.

It could also be someone has fitted totally the wrong bearing or a wider one, but again that would mean the whole hubshaft is not sitting correctly or the hubshaft more likely has been turned down to compensate its alignment into the housing and ensure the rear brake disc sits correctly. The work looks quite recent and everything clean looking so if someones own modification it would appear badly engineered regarding the lack of retention.

As regards the dust seal that should also be between the bearing inner face and the circlip I have seen so many times this has been left out even by Lotus dealers as later bearings incorporated a built in seal. It is not a practice I agree with as the distance internally requires the metal shield thickness to make the whole assembly a correct fit and no risk of lateral movement again which would put additional forces on the outer bearing inner wall.

So many times I have seen these rear hubs 'bodged' for a quick repair to knowingly sell the car on. The main issue which results if standard spring turrets are still fitted too is the tyre can rub on the lower spring pan and literally shred the inner wall.

I would certainly contact the PO and ask who/what/how was the job done as an initial step.

Regards

Steve

[alan]

before the inner bearing is fitted to the shaft the dirt sheild should be in place.
Fit new dirtsheild and be carefull not to damage it when pressing bearing onto shaft.
It is normal to trim the bearing seal that the circlip presses against to allow the circlip to fit correctly into the groove in the chapman strut.

[Plus 2]

before the inner bearing is fitted to the shaft the dirt sheild should be in place.
Fit new dirtsheild and be carefull not to damage it when pressing bearing onto shaft.
It is normal to trim the bearing seal that the circlip presses against to allow the circlip to fit correctly into the groove in the chapman strut.

HaHa.........I will own up to having made that mistake ONCE many years ago ...............the circlip can be orientated around and fitted afterwards but not the metal plate

[john.p.clegg]

David
Seeing that you live in the UK it might be worthwhile fitting a plastic shield...Blue Peter,fairy liquid bottle cut to size...doesn't rust or biodegrade...and no doubt it's lighter ( CABC )

John

[MickG]

Hi David,
I agree with all the previous posts. You may also like to look at the bolts that secure the strut to the lower A frame as they look wrong. There should be a gap between the two threaded end of the bolts.
I would question the work done by the PO as to me it looks incorrect in so many ways! and potentially dangerous.

Regards Mick G

[rgh0]

David
Seeing that you live in the UK it might be worthwhile fitting a plastic shield...Blue Peter,fairy liquid bottle cut to size...doesn't rust or biodegrade...and no doubt it's lighter ( CABC )

John

Hi John
I think a bottle plastic shield would be a little to flexible and allow the bearing to potentially move slightly in the housing. This could lead to fretting and wear. I would stick to the aluminium style original when locating the bearing

cheers
Rohan

[alan]

Rohan,
i am sure John was joking, sorry but it's British humour
For sure the lot must be dismantled and assembled correctly before driving.
Sometimes it is amazing what previous owners do just to move the car on

[rgh0]

I can normally understand British humour - always struggled with French or German comedy though

[dunclentdr]

Thanks, just off now to buy some Fairy Liquid.

The driveshaft conversions are Spyder.

I think it is full removal, strip and inspection.

Paul Matty has a 6-8 week wait, any suggestions about a good garage to strip and refit the bearings anyone?

[alan]

i hope you know this is not a soap opera
where do you live in u.k. if in the South Miles Wilkins

[dunclentdr]

In the Midlands but drive all over! Do you have MW contact details?

[alan]

http://www.fibreglassservices.com/index ... dex_02.gif
just to prepare you he only likes to keep Lotus cars original and imho keeps Lotus cars how they should be

[dunclentdr]

Thanks