Removing brake pedal pivot shaft

[Dave240]

I would like to remove the pedal pivot shaft as my clutch pedal is very sticky. I also want to sandblast the pedal box and would like to get all the moving parts off first. Can someone give me advice on how to remove it properly?

As you can see in the photos, I've removed the cotter pins on the outside of the pedal box, on both sides. In the workshop manual, it says to remove the circlips on the outside of the pedal box, but I don't see any circlips.

When I move the clutch pedal, the whole shaft moves, whereas when I move the brake pedal, it moves freely and doesn't move the shaft at all. So the shaft rotates but doesn't move side to side at all.

Any advice?


Cotter pin (mostly) removed, no circlips in sight. Pin was so old it disintegrated when I tried to remove it, so the middle of it is still stuck in the shaft.

[vernon.taylor]

Salut Dave

I'm not sure the word 'properly' could be used even when the pedal box was new

Mine was in a similar state - you have to get out the complete split-pins (cotters are on the end of the shafts that attach to the master cylinders) - use a drift or drill carefully - whatever you can use because access is a pig. If you want to make the job easier and the subsequent reassembly easier, too you could cut an access hole in the top of the box (and make up a screwed plate to cover). I didn't cut mine, but mainly because I didn't think of it.

Once all the pins are cleanly out soak in your favourite penetrating oil for a night or two. If sharp hammer taps on the axe don't free things up, repeat the soaking. If that gets you nowhere I guess you'll have to find someone with a press. I seem to remember that's what I did. The pressed end will get a bit deformed but that can be rectified in a lathe or hand-file. If with a lathe give the axe a skim to clean it up.

Use R-pins instead of split pins for reassembly - easier to remove.

Your box looks OK - I had to reinforce the axe-hole on mine with another washer.

Use a gasket or RTV when you put it back (carbs off). If you don't have the rectangular metal piece that bolts up from the inside it's worth making one up - it reduces flex noticably.

@+

Vernon

[Chancer]

I know what you mean by "axe" Vernon but then I also speak Franglais , for anyone else perhaps from the other side of the atlantic it means shaft or spindle.

Give the thing a good sexual beating with a large hammer, that will preserve the originality!!!

[Dave240]

Thanks Vernon for the very helpful post (and Chancer for the translation ).

So in theory if I remove the remnants of the split pins and soak the whole thing in penetrating fluid, the axe/shaft should just slide out? There's nothing else that needs to be removed?

The box has obviously been out before as the top was already cut off and fitting with a nice cover plate, so that's one less thing I need to do.

[Bud English]

Here's another take on the job you're tackling.
lotus-chassis-f36/pedal-box-rebuild-t17303.html

Some think that adding the bushings is overkill. I only wanted to do this job once so I added them and replaced the shaft. Oh, keep track of the washers that are both between the pedal pivots and at the ends of the shaft. The spring tends to make things come apart in a hurry when you finally get the shaft to let go.

[vernon.taylor]

Salut Dave

Yes, in theory the shaft should just slide out and probably could for the first few weeks after it was made.

Chancer : thanks - I'm now sometimes convinced the French word is the English one and vice-versa!

@+

Vernon

[john.p.clegg]

This is why when I replaced my shaft I drilled it out,fitted a grease nipple in one end and bleed holes in-line with the three bushes...

John

P.S. 90 degree nipple so you can get at it without dismantling

[vlc584g]

Thanks for all the info on this subject!!!!!!!!!!!
Thought i'd do a simple job of replacing the brake and clutch master cylinder seals - then it soon struck me that nothing on a lotus is ever easy.
Had to :-
Cut off both pipes at masters with hack saw blade (no chance of undoing in situ)
Remove both strombergs to allow pedal box to swivel through 90 degrees to remove
Try to find circlip on pedal shaft (doesn't exist?)
Free off pedals from shaft - 2 hour job involving oxy-acetylene and a big hammer
Remove shaft from box - big hammer (lots of swearing)
Just got everything degreased now and pistons out of both cylinders

Now need to find a local engineering shop to sort a new shaft (will take pedals as well) probably going for the grease nipple idea on each pedal and a tab to firmly locate the shaft to the box.

Thanks again to all contributors on this subject - very helpful

Cheers

Andrew.

[KevJ+2]

Thought I'd show you my nipples and strengthening plate.

[david.g.chapman]

When you clean everything up, you may find that there is side to side play in the pedals as the pedal bushes wear internally. More than a few mm and it will fail the MOT as the pedals start to foul each other.

I had this situation and found an easy fix by replacing the 1/2 inch pedal shaft with a 13 mm shaft. It took up all the play and I just had to ease the pedal bushes with some emery wrapped around a rod.

You might be OK though if the crud layer around your shaft is thin.

Cheers

Dave Chapman.

[vlc584g]

kev - thanks for the picture, looks a good set up now!
Dave - thanks for the additional info!

I dropped off the pedal box and pedals at a local machining shop this morning - very interesting it was too! The proprietor is a motorcycle racer into his road racing (TT / Northwest 200 / Aintree) so I am hopeful of a good result.
The plan (now) is to have a stainless shaft which will be pinned in place, ream out the pedal pivots to accept suitable bushes, fabricate strengthening plate and generally tidy up/straighten the housing.

Fingers crossed!

Cheers

Andrew