Rear Axle

[Ianashdown57]

Hi,

Does anyone have accurate dimensions of the Elan Rear Stub Axle that they would be willing to share? Just trying to save having to take mine apart!

Thanks,

Ian

[bilcoh]

Ian:

BTW, my middle name, in case anyone cares.

Anyway, my diff is still together, but I have Tony Thompson stub axles ready for replacement along with the CV shafts and outboard axles. What dimensions do you need? Maybe I can help assuming Gary isn't photographing and measuring, then producing original shop drawings. I may also have an original but broken output stub axle to measure.

Gary, meaning to compliment, in case it's not clear.

Anyway, I can try to get you some measurements and photos if helpful. Just let me know what you're looking for.

Dave

[Ianashdown57]

I have the Diff output flange, Rotoflex & Driveshaft modeled in CAD but my rear upright is all together and I would like to model it too. Then I have a complete standard set-up that I can refer to when I model the new system. So basically all the dimensions of the stub axle!

Thanks,

Ian

[bilcoh]

Ahh! I think of the stub axle as the diff output shaft. OK, so we're talking about the hub carrier, and it's innards. Mine are all apart, but I no longer own those axles as I sold them when I got the TT units. Figured I was replacing them, and didn't need the old pieces more than the green to offset costs.

Anyone else able to help with original units? Not sure if the TT's are the same, so I'd hate to send you down the wrong road with bum measurements.

BTW, you're really serious about redesigning the rear driveline, eh? That's an ambitious mod. More power to you. Way beyond my scope.

Dave

[Ianashdown57]

My plan is to find a better solution than is presently available. Initially for my own S1, but if it all works out and can be built at a reasonable cost I'll offer them for sale.

In a previous life I was a mechanical design engineer for F1, CART and IRL cars and have designed many drive shaft assemblies so this one doesn't give me too much concern. The only difficulty is not having the complete suspension geometry of the original car to base the new design on. It takes a bit more work to 'reverse engineer' everything compared original new design.

Ian

[garyeanderson]

Which stub axle? early or late - ie issue 16 or issue 18
TT has this stuff, Charles Hsu did a kit for the Europa that he has offered in modified form for the Elan, the link is
elan-f14/upgraded-drive-axles-seen-ebay-t21272.html

Tony Thompson has prices and so does Charles so you know what the costs are, Tony's is a factory type replacement and the one from Charles is not.

Gary

[Ianashdown57]

Hi,

My initial plan is to make everything for my S1, so bolt on wheels etc. I take issue with using key ways because 'splines do not center well'. If that is the case there are a lot of gearboxes out there that are going to need converting soon!!

My thought for the axle would be to make it in a high quality material like 4340 and with a flange on the inner end instead of the three legged spider.

In the end I believe my solution will be lighter, stronger and will not have any droop issues. It will not be cheap, but hopefully no more than the existing CV kits.

I could do a set-up where the output shaft (diff) and the stub axle (upright) could continue to be used and only the driveshaft and joints are replaced. Would that be more palatable? I know adding the shafts will substantially add cost, but the part will be for life then.

Ian

[garyeanderson]

What about the rotor? it mounts to the opposite face of the spider with the cv/donut on the other.

The rotor is installed after the drive shaft is installed, snap rings and such. I think I am missing something on your idea.

Gary

[elansprint71]

Ian,
Welcome to the forum.
How many miles have you put on the clock since you purchased your Elan with the Metalastik set-up?


No offence; back in '76 I decided that the drive-line could benefit from a bit of development too.
However, lots of folks seem to think that it does the job (not me; I changed to off-the-shelf twin-wishbones and CVs some while back).

[Ianashdown57]

For Pete,

No offence taken. Way to old to take offence at almost anything these days!

I have put precisely zero miles on my car with the Metalistic joints. Because the joint is already blown apart, damaging the chassis (a little), the lower wishbone, the trunk floor etc. Seeing this I'm not feeling real good about putting something like this back on the car once I've replaced all the damaged parts.


For Mr P. Ant,

There are a couple of ways to keep the rotor in the same place. One would mean the rotor would have to be inserted on to the axle before the axle was fitted to the upright - not the best solution. The other would allow it to be fitted in exactly the same way.

Ian

[elansprint71]

For Pete,

No offence taken. Way to old to take offence at almost anything these days!

I have put precisely zero miles on my car with the Metalistic joints. Because the joint is already blown apart, damaging the chassis (a little), the lower wishbone, the trunk floor etc. Seeing this I'm not feeling real good about putting something like this back on the car once I've replaced all the damaged parts.
Ian

So: the wheel has already been re-invented; you decide to invent it again. Are we related?

[Ianashdown57]

Maybe . . . !

Its the engineer in me; I just can't leave things alone. I'll have to let him out one day!!

Ian

[garyeanderson]

There are 3 or more driveshafts. Of these 2, one is an early one 26/0001 to 26/4027 (correction - 4109 is the change point according to the Ross and Robinshaw book) or there abouts (maybe 1000 Elans), it has the large PCD flange (search for pcd to get the diameters)
elan-f14/elan-drive-shaft-coupling-pcd-for-t17430.html
The other is a late driveshaft from an issue 18 upright casting and uses the wider bearing.

[jk952]

Ian,
The dimensions for the 3.75 pitch dia Early version are;
1.440, 1.181, 1.167 under cut dia, 1.180, 1.002/
1.23 aprx, .65w, 1.200, 4.030.4.750, 6.97 5/8 nf thd undercut start, .1x45deg chamfer.... etc. etc.

If you send me a pm with your email I will put it in a sketch. Had trouble attaching anything other than pict. in the past.
Measured with a vernier but fairly accurate except where noted. My mic. is only a one inch so not much use, ham dandy for measuring crank journals

Can't help with a later version, maybe Gary can if you ident. which one your are after.
Jack

[buzz pass]

I have a later shaft sitting sans bearing awaiting refitting. I have measured it's pcd to be 95.84mm. If anyone wants dimensions let me know.
This is my first post on this superb net. I am at present working on the rear suspension of my '68 +2, having bought a set of cv shafts and TT strut inserts from Susan. I am near Glasgow thinking of going along to Bo'ness meetings in the near future. Does anyone attend?