Front suspension rebuild
10 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Started on the rebuild of my front suspension this morning - all came apart reasonably easily, now sitting on the bench waiting to be cleaned up and put back. Broke the saddle of my vice pressing the first bushing out, so had to call it a day for now. Does anybody know what the suspension arms are made from ? Mine are painted black but seem to be stainless steel or similar underneath ! Might just have to polish them...
1968 Plus Two
2020 Royal Enfield Continental GT 650
2020 Royal Enfield Continental GT 650
- Shiny_kit
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 24 Feb 2009
Cleaned them up now and they seem to be satin chrome plated, not stainless as I had first thought. Chrome is pretty good, apart from a few bits. Polished up on the buffing wheel ok. Now, do I paint them black again or leave them shiny...
1968 Plus Two
2020 Royal Enfield Continental GT 650
2020 Royal Enfield Continental GT 650
- Shiny_kit
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 24 Feb 2009
How did you get into the corners to polish???
John
John
-
john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 5745
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Shiny,
If your arms are plated and tubular, they are probably Spyder replacement parts. The originals were pressed steel (Triumph Herald/Vitesse) and painted. The originals rust an the mounting holes elongate with age. The Spyder parts are much stronger (I think they may be Cadmium rather than Chrome plated but it's ages since I looked at mine?). There have been various discussions about whether the Spyder parts are too strong and would result in in chassis damage in an accident rather than deforming. I much prefer the Spyder redesign.
Mike
If your arms are plated and tubular, they are probably Spyder replacement parts. The originals were pressed steel (Triumph Herald/Vitesse) and painted. The originals rust an the mounting holes elongate with age. The Spyder parts are much stronger (I think they may be Cadmium rather than Chrome plated but it's ages since I looked at mine?). There have been various discussions about whether the Spyder parts are too strong and would result in in chassis damage in an accident rather than deforming. I much prefer the Spyder redesign.
Mike
- mikealdren
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1224
- Joined: 26 Aug 2006
mikealdren wrote:Shiny,
If your arms are plated and tubular, they are probably Spyder replacement parts. The originals were pressed steel (Triumph Herald/Vitesse) and painted. The originals rust an the mounting holes elongate with age. The Spyder parts are much stronger (I think they may be Cadmium rather than Chrome plated but it's ages since I looked at mine?). There have been various discussions about whether the Spyder parts are too strong and would result in in chassis damage in an accident rather than deforming. I much prefer the Spyder redesign.
Mike
I checked the Spyder site out of curiosity:
Spyder wishbones are available finished in black powder coat, or to special order in polished nickel.
Mine are black powder coat. Looks like "Shiny Kit" is a well chosen handle.
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
-
stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
Hi, the Spyder suspension arms were previously chrome plated, guessing this was at least 15 years ago. I bought some 2nd hand arms and the chrome was shot but steel underneath still good.
Someone on this forum will know for sure.
For removal of suspension bushes, various workaround methods used include burning out the rubber and sawing/machining a weakening groove into the out steel of the bush (sandwich). Probably better to invest in a hydraulic press (about 12 tonne capacity)
Regards
Gerry
Someone on this forum will know for sure.
For removal of suspension bushes, various workaround methods used include burning out the rubber and sawing/machining a weakening groove into the out steel of the bush (sandwich). Probably better to invest in a hydraulic press (about 12 tonne capacity)
Regards
Gerry
- gerrym
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 894
- Joined: 25 Jun 2006
As previously asked; are they tubular or BL stressed-steel pressings?
I'm guessing Spyder nickel-plated; which is fine but... they will rust from the inside.
If you change EVERYTHING "Lotus" on a five-yearly basis, there is a chance that it might all hang together.
I'm guessing Spyder nickel-plated; which is fine but... they will rust from the inside.
If you change EVERYTHING "Lotus" on a five-yearly basis, there is a chance that it might all hang together.
Cheers,
Pete.
http://www.petetaylor.org.uk
LOTUS ELAN flickr GROUP: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2515899@N20
flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/sets/72157624226380576/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/
Pete.
http://www.petetaylor.org.uk
LOTUS ELAN flickr GROUP: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2515899@N20
flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/sets/72157624226380576/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/
-
elansprint71 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
elansprint71 wrote:but... they will rust from the inside.:
Now there's a thought, I'll have to look at the Zetec that I'm building and see if I can get some Dinitrol inside the arms!
Mike
- mikealdren
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1224
- Joined: 26 Aug 2006
10 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 40 guests