LOTOCONES

PostPost by: phatmendus » Mon Oct 24, 2005 2:41 pm

Another question for anyone who can help.

How often do the lotocone rubbers need to be replaced. Is it something that can remain in the car for years and years or ahould they be replaced at certain intervals. I have had to tighted the shock absorber retaining nuts at the top, as the suspension seemed to be sloppy there. After I tightened them the rattles went. Should I actually look to replace the lotocones or is it ok just to tighten the nut?

Also if they should be replaced is it a tough job as it looks like the whole rear suspension has to come out?

Thanks

Simon
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PostPost by: tvacc » Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:05 pm

I dont think they need to be replaced until you see something wrong with them.
And yes..you do have to remove the spring...lower the shock tower down after you have disconnected the outer output shaft from the brake rotor/donut. But you do that to get the spring out.

The main problem I have always had with Lotocones is the the bolts that hold it in are a shallow head...and they get rusted in place. Soak them well with pentrating fluid.


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PostPost by: phatmendus » Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:13 am

Thanks for the info Tony, but Im not sure how you can tell if they need to be replaced. Is there any kind of sign I should look for? Noises, Visual etc? I only ask this question as I have a mysterious clunk from somewhere near the top of one of the turrets, but I cannot replicate the noise at all when moving the suspension with the car jacked up. It is REALLY frustrating as I am at the MOT stage, but am concerned by this noise. I have checked all bolts and mounting points etc, so the only thing I think it can be is the top of the shock (lotocone) or maybe something to so with one side of the petrol tank.

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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Oct 25, 2005 11:47 am

Simon, check for the shock coming loose from the tube,ie, the big, threaded hold down that holds the shock in the tube could be backing off, allowing the shock to 'rattle' in the tube. Depending on if your struts are original or not, the threaded hold down could have a hex on it (makes it easy) or its simply a flat, circular piece, which will require a large channel locks to grasp it. All this can easily be done with just the wheel removed.

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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Tue Oct 25, 2005 12:33 pm

Even if the skocker is tight in the main tube, there could still be a clunk coming from the main shaft connecting the shocker to the lotocone being worn. This would make it a 'rattle' fit where it passes through the top of the shocker tube producing a clunk going over bumps.

This wear may also make the back end feel a bit 'wandery' or loose as the angle of the Chapman strut would change when cornering.

Had both these problems which went away when i replaced both rear inserts.

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PostPost by: phatmendus » Tue Oct 25, 2005 1:24 pm

Thanks Hamish, That is a great help. What do you advise changing if I take the suspension apart to do the lotocones. Should I also change the shocks and springs whilst the unit is dismantled?

Also is it a really hard job or is it something that can be done in a day?

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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Tue Oct 25, 2005 7:03 pm

Simon,

Unless your lotocones are original, I would question the wisdom of changing them (assuming you are doing so to cure the clunk problem). Is it a metallic clunk i.e. a fairly sharp sound or a dull sound (probably rubber)?
Try sitting against the car above the rear wheel. Then grip the the top of the wheel arch with your hands and bounce the car up and down a few times. If you hear clunks I think it worth looking at the shocker for the wear I mentioned in my previous post. You can sometimes get this clunk if you grip the top of the rear wheel and rock it out and in.

Even if there is no wear and the lotocone is shot you'll have to do this anyway to get at the lotocone.
Whatever, you'll have to remove the rear spring for which you'll need spring compressors. Please be careful. The last time I did this I didn't fit the compressor properly and after removal, the spring shot across the garage floor - into the side of a new case of Bud :( :cry: . Damn - lost a good few bottles! At least it wasn't somebody's feet or worse, the car :shock:

It's not a difficult job but involves the removal of the rear shelf to get at the large nut that holds the shocker/spring assembly together. It's below a large rubber gromit. (before undoing this make sure you have the spring compressed a bit to take the tension off the top plate. It's easy enough to lower the whole thing for inspection. With the shocker/spring lowered you can remove/inspect the lotocone easily enough.
Once you have the spring off you can check the plunger rod for play. There should not be any side to side movement.
Remember, if you have to fit a new insert, make sure you fill the cavity between the insert and the Chapman strut tube with a suitable fluid e.g. antifreeze (to help soak away heat from the insert when it's working hard)

If you've any problems just ask some more questions.

Regards,

Hamish.
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PostPost by: phatmendus » Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:19 pm

Hamish,

thanks for the advise. On further inspection (several hours!) i think I may have tracked the problem down, but I shall double check this tomorrow. I think the noise may be the wiring harness which passes between the quarter trim and the side wall of the car. I have moved the suspension in every possible way and it is solid, and looks in pretty good condition. The sounds doesnt really sound that metallic, and the wiring loom is suprisingly solid, so I shall inspect further tomorrow. I am assuming the suspension will need to be done at some point anyway as the car has benn off the road for 12 or so years, and it was last rebuilt in 1985/6 so perhaps it could do with some tlc in a few months time, but right now I really need to get an MOT sorted or I am car-less in two weeks! Nightmare.

Cheers

Simon
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Wed Oct 26, 2005 7:49 am

In my manual it states " If either the damper or spring requires replacing, then the whole assembly of damper, spring and bearing housing must be removed." It also states " If it is desired to fit new dampers Lotus cars recommend that both the damper and housing are replaced as an assembly."
I assume from this thread that this isn't true. What was the reason for putting this in the manual?
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:53 am

chrishewett wrote: states " If it is desired to fit new dampers Lotus cars recommend that both the damper and housing are replaced as an assembly."
I assume from this thread that this isn't true. What was the reason for putting this in the manual?
Chris


Originally the housing was part of the damper and I dont think inserts were available at the time, the housing had a filler plug to top up the oil if nessesary.
In later years the insert became available which was cheaper then replacing the whole strut, I dont think Lotus ever supplied inserts as my parts manual does not list insert as a seperate item.
I think it was an aftermarket supplied unit.
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:09 am

types26/36/74 wrote:[I dont think Lotus ever supplied inserts as my parts manual does not list insert as a seperate item.Brian


I could be wrong there :oops: as looking at the manual it does list hub/damper assembly/bearing housing/damper unit as seperate items.
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