Lotus Elan

Crack Testing Uprights

PostPost by: Foxie » Sat May 29, 2010 6:51 pm

After having this worry at the back of my mind for years, I finally got to crack test the front uprights on my Plus 2.

I got a crack detection kit (3 spray cans) here, IMHO the best ?30 I've spent for a while:
http://www.raceparts-direct.com/product ... +Detection

Usual disclaimer applies :mrgreen:
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Crack Test.jpg and
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Sat May 29, 2010 7:35 pm

Hi Sean

So what does the crack show up as? Are there any in your upright?

Did you have to prep the part (sandblast)?

Jason
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sat May 29, 2010 8:58 pm

How much are new uprights?
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sun May 30, 2010 11:24 am

Jason1 wrote:So what does the crack show up as? Are there any in your upright?

Did you have to prep the part (sandblast)?


Normal clean and degrease, followed by cleaner spray and wipe off (1st can)

Red dye penetrant spray (2nd can) and wait for penetrant to work into any cracks

Penetrant removal (1st can again)

Developer spray (3rd can) Looks like white chalk dust. Red dye remaining in any cracks shows up clearly.

My uprights are now 30 years old, in constant use on the road and circuits, no cracks :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sun May 30, 2010 11:41 am

elansprint71 wrote:How much are new uprights?

Paul Matty ?55 + Vat & Shipping
Spyder ?69.95 +
Spyder all-balljointed ?175 +

All very reasonable, but the cost of finding out you that need a new one can be very expensive if it happens on the road ! :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon May 31, 2010 7:12 am

Sean
While you have the front uprights off you probably should also do the stub axle as these can also crack. I agree that a die penetrant crack test kit should be part of every inspection when working on highly stressed critical components.

regards
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon May 31, 2010 10:25 am

rgh0 wrote:While you have the front uprights off you probably should also do the stub axle as these can also crack. I agree that a die penetrant crack test kit should be part of every inspection when working on highly stressed critical components.

Sure :D
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PostPost by: ecamiel » Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:11 pm

Roahan is right.
I once magnafluxed 14 NEW stub axels. 13 failed.
The front and rear stub axels both really need crack checking.
The +2 (GT 6) axels and uprights are bigger and stronger and well worth it, particularly if you run modern tires.

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PostPost by: gerrym » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:52 am

Any chance of posting a photo showing the critical stress locations for the front axles, GT6 type.

For the uprights, I have assumed that it's just the trunnion thread which is at risk of cracking. Is this correct?

At least for the stub axles, is should be possible to manufacture replacements from higher strength materials if cracks are found to be an issue...
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