Lotus Elan

Easy method of hub removal

PostPost by: Lotus fan » Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:43 am

This is an excellent tip from Ian Phillips, a fellow CLOG.

Appologies for the poor quality of picture !!!

After undoing the nyloc nut a few turns leave the socket in place (as long as it stands proud of the hub threads) and then tighten the spinner against it.
Give the spinner a few good whacks and then hit the back of the hub to loosen the taper then back onto the spinner again.
I removed both hubs within 5 minutes with this method.

Ian F.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:15 pm

Nice one :wink:
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PostPost by: handi_andi » Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:40 pm

Now that is one damn good tip, thanks for sharing it!
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Sat Sep 05, 2009 3:41 pm

Good tip if you are in a bind.

If you have the correct hub tool it is really easy, mine popped off no bother. :D
Getting the stub shafts out is another story.

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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Sep 05, 2009 4:52 pm

A word of caution ... I used this method and it worked on one side OK but the other side was more stubborn and I distorted the spinner. The socket is a smaller diameter than the inside of the spinner and the load generated was sufficient to push up the concave centre. I also made a simple jig to hold the strut stable so I could get a good clean whack on the spinner. (see pics) Obviously the strut needs to be off the car first.

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PostPost by: Lotus fan » Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:00 pm

I know what you mean about the concave surface but luckily I am buying all new spinners :D

Edited to add :-
I did have to whack the spinners pretty hard but the concave surface is still concave :D
Last edited by Lotus fan on Sat Sep 05, 2009 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:46 pm

As mentioned, some hubs can be real buggers to get off for many reasons & they need to be tackled appropriatly.
The above mentioned method is a good bit of lateral thinking but if it doesn't work there's no point in clobbering the living daylights out of the Spinner; common sense should tell us that a more effective method will be necessary.
Using the very course pitched hub thread is an ineffective way of putting a tensile load into the taper joint so if the hub refuses to release after a couple of hefty clouts it's time to think of using a more appropriate puller with a much finer thread & the possible application of heat to the hub.
The thought of somebody clouting the Spinner until it disstorts is, errm, worrying :roll:

Nix f?r ungut
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Sat Sep 05, 2009 6:47 pm

R?ckblickend ist eine wunderbare Sache :shock:
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sat Sep 05, 2009 6:54 pm

oldelanman wrote:R?ckblickend ist eine wunderbare Sache :shock:


Nun da schau her :shock:
Und jetzt schon mit korrektur :wink:
Mensch, hier kann mann nichts verbergen. :roll:

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PostPost by: spanner » Sat Sep 05, 2009 7:54 pm

And here, in the parallel universe.......

http://www.vintageaircraft.org/featured ... 0Notes.pdf

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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:28 pm

Hi Spanner,

an interesting read.
Not quite what I'd call a parallel World
You can't park an Aeroplane at the side of the road if the Prop falls off :shock:
I'm not sure if I read that all correctly but "the light lubrication of the surfaces" is IMHO questionable.
Are they refering to the tapers or just the thrust surfaces?

cheers
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PostPost by: spanner » Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:11 am

Hi John,

They are referring to lubricating the hub and crankshaft tapers.

Thrust surfaces (hub-to-prop) must be clean.....

"an engine must deliver its driving torque to a wood propeller through static friction."

http://www.sensenichprop.com/sen_html/a ... l/cf-a.pdf


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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:30 pm

I've just noticed this thread - and not to use the spinner to extract the hub has never crossed my mind.

You need, of course, to heat the hub before trying to extract it. To be able to extract a hub with the spinner without heat should be very worrying.

On reassembly it is important to remove all the oil used in the lapping process to ensure dry contact surfaces. And don't forget to heat the hub for about 5 minutes with blow lamp to ensure a tight fit on the spindle.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:36 pm

Hi Guys,
I stuck them in the oven for a few mins.Fitted them quite hot, I recon around 100c.What I set the oven at! Don't know if I will ever get the things off again though. Good fitting (lapped) tapers can be a bugger to shift.

Happy days..

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PostPost by: Jason1 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:47 pm

elan-f15/knock-hub-extractors-t13721.html

Get one of these and pop, easy peasy. :D
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