Another rear suspension thread!
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The easiest way to split the hub from shaft is with a tool like the SJ item.
I had one made from a solid billet for a few pounds and it only took a coyple of smacks on the spinner with my heavy hide hammer.
I had tried with 5T hydraulic puller and heat without any success.
It's amazing how effective they are.
I had one made from a solid billet for a few pounds and it only took a coyple of smacks on the spinner with my heavy hide hammer.
I had tried with 5T hydraulic puller and heat without any success.
It's amazing how effective they are.
- MarkDa
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I am glad to hear that having bought one when ordering from sj, knowing id have to do the job at some point.
I'd theorize they are effective as all the force is applied in exactly the right direction and evenly. I suspect the rdent tool is much the same. With a puller it likely very tricky to get it perfectly square and pull the hub off without some side ward load or slight distortion of the hub causing it to nip the shaft.
I'd theorize they are effective as all the force is applied in exactly the right direction and evenly. I suspect the rdent tool is much the same. With a puller it likely very tricky to get it perfectly square and pull the hub off without some side ward load or slight distortion of the hub causing it to nip the shaft.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
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snowyelan wrote:I made up one of the tools below. Not much to it, should be cheap to have made. Just slip it over the stub shaft with the nut removed and crank the K/O nut back on. The recess on the right in the cross section prevents the nut center from taking the load. I used a propane torch to warm the hub to help things along.
Very neat. I like the fact it pushes on the shoulder to protect the thread and the centre of the spinner.
Emma-Knight wrote:There's another way to warm the hub:
Fit the K/O hub Remover with a mild tension on the bolt / or spacer/spinner set up. Preheat some Water to about 80 deg C and position the hub/shaft end upright. Slowly fill the five little pools evenly with the hot water.
Anna
Good idea, especially as I have the struts on the bench. Use the rest of the kettle to make a cuppa whilst I wait!
[/quote]69S4 wrote:I'm near High Wycombe and I have one of the SJ type removal tools (although it's a bit battered) that's taken my hubs off three or four times. Vince is welcome to borrow it but, even with heat, using it does feel like a good way to convert functional parts into scrap.
Thanks I'll PM you. Toad has already been to Thame.
Re the double ended tool that screws onto the hub thread. I prefer that as I'm not that keen on the principal of whacking away at the spinner in the hope it works. On the other hand I also prefer to push on the shoulder not the thread end.
So a compromise would be to use the "double ended" but with the bolt pushing on a blind tube that fits over the threads. Nat' I would have to devise a restraint to prevent the hub ending up embedded in the wall.
What about the old trick of using a hammer on both sides at once? Like for steering swivel tapers.
Anyone know the thread size of the spinner / hub?
- vincereynard
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I made up a puller from the dimensions above. I had to adjust a bit, the hub is cast so inner (non-bearing) part is pretty rough. So I made the outer dimension a bit smaller to fit. Also slightly smaller on the smaller diameter to make sure it would not hit the hub- since I could not really measure until off. Plus if the tool ‘dropped’ a little it still would not hit.
I had to heat up hub pretty well - hot to touch but nothing like red hot or anything.
Worked great.
Thanks for the drawing!
Mark
I had to heat up hub pretty well - hot to touch but nothing like red hot or anything.
Worked great.
Thanks for the drawing!
Mark
1966 Lotus Elan S3- Benelli motorcycles (various)
- Lotus54
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