Inner bushing sleeve stuck on A arm stud
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One of the inner bushing sleeves refused to part ways with the stud that the lower A arm bolts to.
Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the sleeve without damaging the stud? The other seven came off easily, I assume there must be some corrosion holding the sleeve on there. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the sleeve without damaging the stud? The other seven came off easily, I assume there must be some corrosion holding the sleeve on there. Any suggestions are appreciated!
- pianoderby
- First Gear
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 06 Jan 2022
If I could not loosen it with a little heat and penetrant spray and chill spray. would use a dremel with a cutoff disk and carefully cut a slot along the sleeve just part way through, then use a chisel in the slot to split the sleeve.
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8415
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Ok, my plans seem to not be off base then. That’s a problem to tackle tomorrow!
- pianoderby
- First Gear
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 06 Jan 2022
If you can get a chisel on edge?
Clean the edges with dental pick, add penetrant
Clean the edges with dental pick, add penetrant
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
-
h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1968
- Joined: 25 Sep 2010
Penetrant and then a large pair of Vice Grips (Mole Grips) clamped on and then push and pull on the grips to try and "twist" it off.
As above if that doesn't work. If you're using a chisel try grinding or fileing a "flat" on to the sleeve, it should help the chisel from slipping off when you hit it.
As above if that doesn't work. If you're using a chisel try grinding or fileing a "flat" on to the sleeve, it should help the chisel from slipping off when you hit it.
Mike
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
- smo17003
- Third Gear
- Posts: 393
- Joined: 11 May 2006
I agree w/ Rohan. I had to do just that, except I had to burn out the rubber between the inner sleeve and the outer, to get to where this one started. When it goes back together, use Neverseize or comparable product on the stud.
Roger
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
The frame is the original to the car. It is a hodgepodge of colors.
- pianoderby
- First Gear
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 06 Jan 2022
Heat got the sleeve to the point that it would rotate at least, and I was able to wiggle it away from the frame a bit before grinding the slot in it. Knocked the slot open with a hammer and chisel (took a while to find a chisel I didn’t care about as most of the wood working tools are for guitar making), and then was able to slide the sleeve off the rest of the way.
There was some slight surface corrosion under the sleeve, but it was minor. I wonder if the bolt was tightened down to the point of mushrooming the sleeve a bit so it wouldn’t slide over the threads? This was done on one of the trunnions to the point that the sleeve was actually cracked. Oh well, it’s off now. Back to the blast cabinet to clean up the pieces that just came off.
There was some slight surface corrosion under the sleeve, but it was minor. I wonder if the bolt was tightened down to the point of mushrooming the sleeve a bit so it wouldn’t slide over the threads? This was done on one of the trunnions to the point that the sleeve was actually cracked. Oh well, it’s off now. Back to the blast cabinet to clean up the pieces that just came off.
- pianoderby
- First Gear
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 06 Jan 2022
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