Bolt on wheel stud spins in hub - solutions?
5 posts
• Page 1 of 1
One of the studs spins in its whole in the rear hub on my S1 with bolt on wheels, consequently I can't tighten or remove it!! Welding is tricky as the stud is hardened - any ideas on solutions?
Thanks
David
Thanks
David
- dunclentdr1
- Second Gear
- Posts: 172
- Joined: 15 Jun 2017
I take it that the main problem is that you can't remove the wheel?
I would remove the other nuts and pull the wheel outwards opposite the offending stud hoping to generate enough friction on the back to allow the nut to turn.
Or drill down the stud inside the nut until it falls off - you can hold nut to prevent turning. You might even get lucky with the stud spinning back out. Or do you think stud will be too hard?
With hub off presumably the hole can be filled with weld and redrilled to correct size to drive the stud in.
I would remove the other nuts and pull the wheel outwards opposite the offending stud hoping to generate enough friction on the back to allow the nut to turn.
Or drill down the stud inside the nut until it falls off - you can hold nut to prevent turning. You might even get lucky with the stud spinning back out. Or do you think stud will be too hard?
With hub off presumably the hole can be filled with weld and redrilled to correct size to drive the stud in.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Had the same happen to a stud on the rear of my S 1. I think I removed the wheel nut as the previous poster suggested. The wheel studs have splines on them that hold them in the hub and that was what failed on mine. The new stud had sharp new splines that dug into the hub and never had another problem. I have a +2 that the previous owner had removed the drive pegs and put in studs that failed. They had to be ground off because all of them were turning. A lot of work but doable. Hope you can fix yours and the hub is not ruined.
- GLB
- Second Gear
- Posts: 191
- Joined: 31 Jan 2018
I tack welded the stud to the back of the hub on mine when I had one spin, so I could remove the rear wheel. I ended up replacing the hub as the axle taper had belled out after many years of racing loads. The TTR replacement rear hubs use screw in socket head bolts for securing the wheel.
If not replacing the hub a new stud may fix it or for a road car the tack welded stud may be fine to just leave there. On a race car when I am swapping wheels multiple time in a weekend i did not want to risk the stud coming loose again. On a road car when you change wheels once in 4 years its not such a concern
cheers
Rohan
If not replacing the hub a new stud may fix it or for a road car the tack welded stud may be fine to just leave there. On a race car when I am swapping wheels multiple time in a weekend i did not want to risk the stud coming loose again. On a road car when you change wheels once in 4 years its not such a concern
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8413
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
One of my studs was loose when I got my Elan. At the time I didn't have a spare stud with sharper splines so I cleaned up the original and refitted it with a dab of Locktite. And then ordered a new stud from Sue Miller. I've not fitted it because the original stud has never come loose again and I've no idea which one it was.
Nick
Nick
-
elanner - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 546
- Joined: 14 Sep 2010
5 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 20 guests