Hubs
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After just completing my 'maiden voyage' of more than a couple miles, I had a rear wheel loosen and have discovered that the hubs are on the wrong sides. Undo is towards the front. As if the exasperation level hasn't already been reached maximum, now I'm facing removing and switching over the hubs. I did a complete hub removal and overhaul 30 years ago and I know I'm facing a daunting task. Any helpful, sure fire tips and hints? I'm not a strong guy and have a somewhat limited set of equipment at hand. I will need a puller of some kind, without spending a lot as this is going to be a one time only job. Before I had used a Dave Bean tool that fit under the hub nut and acted like a press. If anyone is in the Toronto area and can help with supplying something, that would be great. I'm not looking forward to this, I thought the car was finally ready to enjoy. Previous hands on this car have screwed up a lot ( a former member and the car had been for sale here) , never buy an 'unfinished project'.
- lotusbc
- First Gear
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 11 Feb 2007
Hello LotusBC,
I have an RD Ent. puller tool you are welcome to borrow if there is none available to you locally.
PM me if you are interested.
On edit: Make sure you tighten the K/O's to 220lbs/ft, no matter what the direction!
Regards,
Dan Wise
I have an RD Ent. puller tool you are welcome to borrow if there is none available to you locally.
PM me if you are interested.
On edit: Make sure you tighten the K/O's to 220lbs/ft, no matter what the direction!
Regards,
Dan Wise
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
-
StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1278
- Joined: 26 Sep 2003
I had a 'puller' machined up to fit inside the spinners for a few pounds as it only takes a few minutes on a lathe.
It works a treat and allows nearly full thread engagement and bears on edge of nut.
Outer dia = 51mm
Inner diameter = 41mm
11mm thick + centre spike
It works a treat and allows nearly full thread engagement and bears on edge of nut.
Outer dia = 51mm
Inner diameter = 41mm
11mm thick + centre spike
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Hi Mark,
I have not needed to do that job yet, but that looks useful and I could easily make one.
What is the central spike for?
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
I have not needed to do that job yet, but that looks useful and I could easily make one.
What is the central spike for?
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
- ericbushby
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1352
- Joined: 13 Jun 2011
Hi Eric
The spike puts the load direct into the shaft centre spot and avoids any chance of thread damage if the disc tries to rock about.
When I did my rebuild a few years ago the hubs had been on for 40 years and a couple of good hard whacks on the spinners released them
The spike puts the load direct into the shaft centre spot and avoids any chance of thread damage if the disc tries to rock about.
When I did my rebuild a few years ago the hubs had been on for 40 years and a couple of good hard whacks on the spinners released them
Last edited by MarkDa on Wed Jun 03, 2020 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Hi Lotusbc,
I've made an adapter for popping the hubs off with the octagonal nut. I won't claim credit for the design, its from the Robinshaw and Ross book. It's a bit different than the one in the pic above. It bears on the shoulder just below the axle thread so avoids any risk of thread damage. The center of the end that contacts the octagonal nut is also recessed to prevent any pressure from being applied to the center of the nut which could damage it.
Its a pretty straightforward piece that could probably be cobbled together from a bit of pipe and a thick washer or 2
I cranked the octagonal nut down then heated the hub gently with a propane torch and it freed up, no violent beating required.
I've made an adapter for popping the hubs off with the octagonal nut. I won't claim credit for the design, its from the Robinshaw and Ross book. It's a bit different than the one in the pic above. It bears on the shoulder just below the axle thread so avoids any risk of thread damage. The center of the end that contacts the octagonal nut is also recessed to prevent any pressure from being applied to the center of the nut which could damage it.
Its a pretty straightforward piece that could probably be cobbled together from a bit of pipe and a thick washer or 2
I cranked the octagonal nut down then heated the hub gently with a propane torch and it freed up, no violent beating required.
Scott
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
- snowyelan
- Third Gear
- Posts: 444
- Joined: 14 Sep 2003
I agree that whatever tool you make you want to avoid the centre of the nut which I think is quite thin.
I can see advantages going down to the shoulder to apply the load but think the there is merit in going up to 2" to minimise risk of damage to the nut.
If I remember correctly inthe inside dishes away (concave in relation to the tool anyway.
Either way no need to spend what the usual suspects are asking.
I can see advantages going down to the shoulder to apply the load but think the there is merit in going up to 2" to minimise risk of damage to the nut.
If I remember correctly inthe inside dishes away (concave in relation to the tool anyway.
Either way no need to spend what the usual suspects are asking.
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
The OD of the tool above suits the ID of the hub. Ideally it would suit the ID of the nut thread but there isn't enough depth unless you sacrifice thread engagement.
I have no issue with loaning this out (or any of the various bits I've made up for the rear upright bearings, gearbox assembly etc) but SWMBO has us under strict house quarantine so no post office runs. Not all negative tho, 1/8 tank of petrol in 10 wks=more $ for lotus parts!!!
I have no issue with loaning this out (or any of the various bits I've made up for the rear upright bearings, gearbox assembly etc) but SWMBO has us under strict house quarantine so no post office runs. Not all negative tho, 1/8 tank of petrol in 10 wks=more $ for lotus parts!!!
Scott
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
- snowyelan
- Third Gear
- Posts: 444
- Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Spinner engagement is the reason my tool is so thin.
Because we're only releasing the taper rather than drawing the hub off there doesn't need to be a lot of clearance.
I guess that eventually the spike on mine will go and I may lose clearance - but it's not a tool that gets a lot of use (with a bit of luck)
I expect it to see me out
Because we're only releasing the taper rather than drawing the hub off there doesn't need to be a lot of clearance.
I guess that eventually the spike on mine will go and I may lose clearance - but it's not a tool that gets a lot of use (with a bit of luck)
I expect it to see me out
- MarkDa
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Hi Tim,
Its posted in the thread below from a while back. Not sure why the resolution changed.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=42832&p=302971#p302971
Its posted in the thread below from a while back. Not sure why the resolution changed.
viewtopic.php?f=42&t=42832&p=302971#p302971
Scott
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
- snowyelan
- Third Gear
- Posts: 444
- Joined: 14 Sep 2003
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