Drain the Rear Hubs?
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1
I've got the bits back and will shortly begin to build up the struts.
The drive shafts, whilst straight, have corrosion between the bearing surfaces. I've noticed similar on others. This would suggest that moisture / condensation gets in the hub void.
Would it be a good idea to drill a small drain hole at the bottom and fit in a split pin "jiggler" whilst it is all apart? Or a waste of time?
The drive shafts, whilst straight, have corrosion between the bearing surfaces. I've noticed similar on others. This would suggest that moisture / condensation gets in the hub void.
Would it be a good idea to drill a small drain hole at the bottom and fit in a split pin "jiggler" whilst it is all apart? Or a waste of time?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
Can the void be packed with grease?
Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
Find out where the limits are, and start from there
Love your Mother
Earth
-
h20hamelan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1968
- Joined: 25 Sep 2010
John
Depends how deep the fords are round your area.
Grease pack ?...not exactly "adding lightness" , maybe a quick spray all a round with your favourite lubricant...old engine oil is my favourite... plenty on the garage floor..
John
Depends how deep the fords are round your area.
Grease pack ?...not exactly "adding lightness" , maybe a quick spray all a round with your favourite lubricant...old engine oil is my favourite... plenty on the garage floor..
John
-
john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
h20hamelan wrote:Can the void be packed with grease?
I doubt that would work. It would be impossible to fill it entirely and even then the spinning of the shaft would create a void around the shaft and bearings. Probably make it worse!
john.p.clegg wrote:John
Depends how deep the fords are round your area.
Grease pack ?...not exactly "adding lightness" , maybe a quick spray all a round with your favourite lubricant...old engine oil is my favourite... plenty on the garage floor..
John
Could fill it with foam as a bouyancy aid? What with raising sea levels it could be an option.
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
Helium filled foam , Colin would be proud of you....
John
John
-
john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Small hole in the end cap with a blanking grommet - remove and spray inside with anti rust (e.g. ACF50 or similar) or spray can grease when paranoia strikes?
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
- 69S4
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1124
- Joined: 23 Sep 2004
I would remove the rust, maybe treat the shaft with Fertan and then, after bearings in place, cover free areas with quite solid non creeping grease. I use Klever Gun Vaseline, a bit more solid like ordinary Vaseline. In tests it showed very good long time water repellant properties. It does'nt wash off easily. And it would not creep into the bearings. It could also close the gaps between hub, shaft and key after fitting the hub.
Anna
Anna
1965 S2
- Emma-Knight
- Third Gear
- Posts: 362
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004
Emma-Knight wrote:I would remove the rust, maybe treat the shaft with Fertan and then, after bearings in place, cover free areas with quite solid non creeping grease. I use Klever Gun Vaseline, a bit more solid like ordinary Vaseline. In tests it showed very good long time water repellant properties. It does'nt wash off easily. And it would not creep into the bearings. It could also close the gaps between hub, shaft and key after fitting the hub.
Anna
Thanks for that. Fertan is a new product to me.
I was thinking along the line of spraying WaxOil (or equivalent) into the cavity. I note that the steel tube
(inside the hub) could also do with protection.
Perhaps a rivnut into the end cap, spray the void with waxoil etc, then close off with a suitable setscrew. Cover with underseal.
I might give it a try!
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1071
- Joined: 12 Jan 2015
+1 for paint it. Upol Acid etch 8 in a rattle can from Halfords. Very tough and long-lasting finish.
1970 S4SE/1760cc big valve/SA-AX block, L2s, 45DCOEs, 1978 Jensen GT, 1962 AH Sprite, Alfa-Romeo 159, 1966 Bristol Bus, 1947 AEC Regal bus.
- nigelrbfurness
- Third Gear
- Posts: 373
- Joined: 04 Apr 2008
11 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests