Removing / refitting Webers
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Further to my recent post, I’m going to have a go at removing the type 31 carbs to drill a hole the rear inspection plates. (As used on later models)
This will hopefully cure the vacuum effect that’s likely causing fuel to drip when the engine is shut down after a spirited drive.
Both rear inspection plates have clear evidence of fuel leakage around their edges.
I’m no mechanic so have read the manual several times before starting the work
I had imagined that I’d remove and refit the carbs individually to get better access to the mounting cups / washers to ensure correct tightness.
The manual says remove the carbs ‘As an assembly, ensuring that the synchronising linkage between the two isn’t distorted’
Is that really necessary or am I creating new issues by attempting to split them on removal and refitting?
Thanks
This will hopefully cure the vacuum effect that’s likely causing fuel to drip when the engine is shut down after a spirited drive.
Both rear inspection plates have clear evidence of fuel leakage around their edges.
I’m no mechanic so have read the manual several times before starting the work
I had imagined that I’d remove and refit the carbs individually to get better access to the mounting cups / washers to ensure correct tightness.
The manual says remove the carbs ‘As an assembly, ensuring that the synchronising linkage between the two isn’t distorted’
Is that really necessary or am I creating new issues by attempting to split them on removal and refitting?
Thanks
- Cadence
- First Gear
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 26 Jul 2022
No, you need to take them off as a pair, linkage gets in the way. The mod now is as pic, pretty standard now. In my experience with the 31 it will never perform as you would like over stumble issue. Fundamental position of progression drillings simply wrong for a 1558 TwinCam, try by all means but not waste £££ on them.
- Craven
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 14 Sep 2013
Just a couple of tips:
1. DISCONNECT the battery BEFORE STARTING ON THE JOB.
2. Keep a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy.
1. DISCONNECT the battery BEFORE STARTING ON THE JOB.
2. Keep a FIRE EXTINGUISHER handy.
Last edited by types26/36 on Sun Oct 20, 2024 3:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
I always pull the webers and airbox back plate off as an assembly. Using a 1/4 flexible extension drive shaft and socket it is quick and easy to access the mounting nuts to remove and refit. Doing it this way also retains to the carb balance though I do always check it after reassembly.
cheers
Rohan
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
rgh0 wrote:I always pull the webers and airbox back plate off as an assembly. Using a 1/4 flexible extension drive shaft and socket it is quick and easy to access the mounting nuts to remove and refit. Doing it this way also retains to the carb balance though I do always check it after reassembly.
cheers
Rohan
Thanks for the tips Rohan. Confidence levels are rising
- Cadence
- First Gear
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 26 Jul 2022
Agree with Rohan, the only way to keep the carb balance something like, but I also check mine as soon as it's back together and fired up, with a carb balancing tool, (synchrometer.).
Current :- Elan S3 DHC SE S/S 1968,
1963 Alfa Giulia Ti Super Rep.
Previous :-
Elan S3 DHC SE SS 1968,
Elan S3 DHC S/E 1966
Elan S3 FHC Pre-Airflow 1966
1963 Alfa Giulia Ti Super Rep.
Previous :-
Elan S3 DHC SE SS 1968,
Elan S3 DHC S/E 1966
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- elans3
- Fourth Gear
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