AFR Meter

PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Mar 24, 2024 8:02 am

Hi,
I want to set up my carbs much better than they are and do it myself.

So I was thinking of getting an AFR to commit or the combustion and have it temporarily installed say under the dash but obviously still visible. The issue is where to fit the sensor as I really can’t see a good spot to fit it. Any ideas or photos of an install please.

Thanks
Mark
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Mar 24, 2024 11:20 am

Hi Mark,

I fitted it in the pipe under the gearbox, protruding to the passenger side (rhd). Photo attached. You need to clock the sensor at the right angle with tail up slightly for moisture to drain.

I then ran the cable up and entered car behind the gear stick, under the center console and up behind the dash. I have the gauge in place of the clock, as the clock wasn't fitted and I have a battery kill switch so it not much use.

Cheers,

Mark
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Mar 24, 2024 2:38 pm

Mark,
Is the engine standard or different cams etc.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Mar 24, 2024 2:42 pm

Mark,
Is the engine standard or different cams etc.
Alan
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:05 pm

On my Plus 2 I located the sensor bung very similarly to above. I actually started with a clamp on style bung similar to this one by AEM. Once I had the large bore exhaust roughly sorted and working, the exhaust shop replaced my relatively crude ~15 degree transition piece behind the two into one clamp on collector that attaches to the header.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-2355-200

DCDD75F7-6262-48EA-84E2-1FBB253C3291.jpeg and
AEM Electronics No-Weld O2 Sensor Mounts 30-2355-200


I ran the wiring thru the large rubber access port on the right side of the tunnel.

The gauge itself is still ‘temporarily” mounted below the dash using a clamp attached to the steering column. The gauge face can be easily tucked under the dash when not needed. The clamps I used were from eBay and described as handle bar mounts and pivots for mounting GPS units on motorcycles. I could look them up if you want more details.

Note it is not advisable to run the engine without the sensor powered up as it can be damaged without the heater circuit functioning. If you want to remove the gauge the sensor should be replaced with a blanking plug.

My sensor is at about 12 o’clock on the pipe. It is a bit of a fiddle to screw in the sensor from under the car, but it all works without fouling the driveshaft. The trick is to twist the wire a few turns so it unwinds as you screw it in. As mentioned the sensor has to be mounted between 9 and 3 o’clock to prevent contamination.

The AEM system has worked well. The previously installed Innovate brand unit was not as good.

HTH
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:22 pm

as for the electrics

https://zeitronix.com/
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Mar 24, 2024 4:17 pm

alan.barker wrote:Mark,
Is the engine standard or different cams etc.
Alan


It’s on QeD 420 cams, fully ported head.

Thanks
Mark
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Mar 24, 2024 4:42 pm

Hi Mark,
On my TVR 3000S the previous owner had the engine rebuilt by Burtonpower with fast road Cam. But had never rejetted Carb to match and it was running very lean.
I fitted an AFM Sensor which enabled me to rejet and calibrate Carb.
As you drive you can monitor mixture and dowmload to Laptop if you want.
A lot cheaper than a day on a rolling road.
Good luck Mark.
Alan
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Mar 24, 2024 9:05 pm

alan.barker wrote:Hi Mark,
On my TVR 3000S the previous owner had the engine rebuilt by Burtonpower with fast road Cam. But had never rejetted Carb to match and it was running very lean.
I fitted an AFM Sensor which enabled me to rejet and calibrate Carb.
As you drive you can monitor mixture and dowmload to Laptop if you want.
A lot cheaper than a day on a rolling road.
Good luck Mark.
Alan


Alan,
Which AFR did you use, a logger would probably help analysis.

thanks
Mark
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Mar 24, 2024 9:45 pm

My aem has a serial out. Think I wired it to a db9 connector and got a USB to serial converter. I can then plug that in to my phone (or computer) and use a serial console app to log the mixture. I think it generates 10 samples a second.

The log file can then be loaded into a spreadsheet to plot the data in graph form.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Mar 24, 2024 9:49 pm

Hi Mark,
I used AEM also
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Mon Mar 25, 2024 1:21 am

I 3D printed a bezel/mount- electric waterpump controller on left, A/F meter on right.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Mon Mar 25, 2024 3:16 am

I too have the AEM I swap around between cars. No real need to leave it long term.
But ive been using the zeitronix in a 73 Benz and enjoy it, will use them now that AEM is sold.
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PostPost by: disquek » Mon Mar 25, 2024 4:50 pm

Make sure to install the sensor at a downward angle greater than 10 degrees. If water collects in the sensor, it can kill it almost instantly.
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PostPost by: h20hamelan » Mon Mar 25, 2024 5:13 pm

Born, and brought home from the hospital (no seat belt (wtf)) in a baby!
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