Mild Misfire
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Got a mild nagging misfire. Not enough to stop running, but annoying. Reviewing the current forum posts, haven't been able to sort it out yet. Here are my symptoms:
- Mild misfire a low throttle. Does not seem to be as bad or present at idle or full throttle.
- All new electric ignition/distributor/coil. Timing set according to manual advance specs.
- New fuel filter
- Plugs seem to be dry and black, which should tell me I'm running a bit rich? Using NGK BP6ES. So I know I'm getting fuel.
- Checked strombergs, lifting the piston slightly while running speeds the engine up then it goes back to idle, which I'm reading as the mixture is correct?
I live at 3,000 feet elevation. Could that possibly be affecting the air/fuel mixture?
Any suggestions appreciated.
- Mild misfire a low throttle. Does not seem to be as bad or present at idle or full throttle.
- All new electric ignition/distributor/coil. Timing set according to manual advance specs.
- New fuel filter
- Plugs seem to be dry and black, which should tell me I'm running a bit rich? Using NGK BP6ES. So I know I'm getting fuel.
- Checked strombergs, lifting the piston slightly while running speeds the engine up then it goes back to idle, which I'm reading as the mixture is correct?
I live at 3,000 feet elevation. Could that possibly be affecting the air/fuel mixture?
Any suggestions appreciated.
- Gorpon73
- Second Gear
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 11 Dec 2012
check the flex mounts on the carbs.
I redid mine and always had a funky miss at small throttle openings, at say 35mph in forth, just putting along. Anyhow after much fussing about I just tightened the flex mounts (tighter than the specs say ) and the car is so much better. Good Luck
I redid mine and always had a funky miss at small throttle openings, at say 35mph in forth, just putting along. Anyhow after much fussing about I just tightened the flex mounts (tighter than the specs say ) and the car is so much better. Good Luck
- 3lotus
- First Gear
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Hello,
Two things I would check:
1. the state of your low tension feed to the coil, you can hotwire a temporary jumper from a 12 volt feed to coil +ve to see if it cures, don’t forget to remove when you’re done!
2. the BP6 is ok if you’re flat out everywhere, but a bit cold for normal running which can show up as black plugs and a sooty rear bumper, Try a BP5 or you can try Champion N9Y, both 1 grade warmer, again just looking to see if you get an improvement.
Regards
Iain
Two things I would check:
1. the state of your low tension feed to the coil, you can hotwire a temporary jumper from a 12 volt feed to coil +ve to see if it cures, don’t forget to remove when you’re done!
2. the BP6 is ok if you’re flat out everywhere, but a bit cold for normal running which can show up as black plugs and a sooty rear bumper, Try a BP5 or you can try Champion N9Y, both 1 grade warmer, again just looking to see if you get an improvement.
Regards
Iain
72 Sprint - 0363E
74 S130/5 - 1931L
74 S130/5 - 1931L
- sprintsoft
- Third Gear
- Posts: 225
- Joined: 18 Mar 2019
Which electronic ignition, and which coil?
The basic Pertronix Ignitor cannot tolerate a 'hot' coil with low internal resistance. The coil should have 3.2-3.4 ohms of resistance, plus the ballast resistor. If you delete the ballast resistor, or use a coil with lower internal resistance, the Ignitor will over-heat and periodically drop-out... mis-fire.
I recently went through a long de-bugging process. Ignitor with a Pertronix coil, but it was a 1.6 ohm coil. "It can't be the ignition, they're brand new"... so I checked everything else with no success. When I finally replaced the coil with a Pertronix Flamethrower with 3.4 ohms internal resistance, the problem went away.
*~*~*~*
Which carbs?
Good luck,
Tim Engel
The basic Pertronix Ignitor cannot tolerate a 'hot' coil with low internal resistance. The coil should have 3.2-3.4 ohms of resistance, plus the ballast resistor. If you delete the ballast resistor, or use a coil with lower internal resistance, the Ignitor will over-heat and periodically drop-out... mis-fire.
I recently went through a long de-bugging process. Ignitor with a Pertronix coil, but it was a 1.6 ohm coil. "It can't be the ignition, they're brand new"... so I checked everything else with no success. When I finally replaced the coil with a Pertronix Flamethrower with 3.4 ohms internal resistance, the problem went away.
*~*~*~*
Which carbs?
Good luck,
Tim Engel
- Esprit2
- Third Gear
- Posts: 355
- Joined: 02 Apr 2008
Thanks for the suggestions. In process for checking all but the last one.
Interesting though. I have a flamethrower II, which is a low ohm (0.6) coil that was preferred for the ignitor II?
It stutters when cold as well, so perhaps not a hot coil issue?
Interesting though. I have a flamethrower II, which is a low ohm (0.6) coil that was preferred for the ignitor II?
It stutters when cold as well, so perhaps not a hot coil issue?
- Gorpon73
- Second Gear
- Posts: 74
- Joined: 11 Dec 2012
1st thing to check on Stromburgs is the rubber diaphram. Take out the 4 screws holding the top on the carb and check the diaphragm for any rips, holes or brittle cracked spots.
Roger
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
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