Quick question about the standard fuel pump

[JonB]

Following on from a post in "What have you done to your Elan today?" I want to ask about the fuel pump.

Item 14 in http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/EH_-_Engi ... _Pump_%2B2 shows a valve. Is this a non return valve for the fuel, to prevent the float bowls from draining, and if so could a defective valve cause difficulty starting?

I know it's often said that the main loss of float chamber fuel in an Elan that's left for a while is evaporation, but I am beginning to suspect the valve might be a culprit too. Except the fuel enters the float chamber from the top, not the bottom, so a full chamber wouldn't "drain". Have I got that right?

[vincereynard]

Item 14 in http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/EH_-_Engi ... _Pump_%2B2 shows a valve. Is this a non return valve for the fuel, to prevent the float bowls from draining, and if so could a defective valve cause difficulty starting?

Jon,
The non return is there to prevent the pump pushing the fuel back to the tank.

Remember the +2 has a high tank and , depending on how high the fuel load is, it will drain through the pump given half a chance. A leaking fuel pump cap drained best part of a half gallon onto the garage floor overnight. No wonder the garage stunk!

Cough up and go electric!
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-acc ... ump-133010
Vince

[JonB]

Yes, it's on the list. Getting fed up of running the battery down trying to prime the carbs. Speaking of which, I went out to start it today after 10 days laying up in the garage and found the (recently fitted, new) battery is flat. Have no idea why. Maybe I left a door ajar and the interior light killed it, but I would have noticed.

I also need:-

• Fuel pump blanking plate and gasket
• New fuel line (I think - at least for the flexible bits and to bypass the old pump?)
• Some way to connect line to pump
• Inertia cutoff switch, wiring , fuse

Isn't that HUCO pump a bit noisy?

[vincereynard]

Yes, it's on the list. Getting fed up of running the battery down trying to prime the carbs. Speaking of which, I went out to start it today after 10 days laying up in the garage and found the (recently fitted, new) battery is flat. Have no idea why. Maybe I left a door ajar and the interior light killed it, but I would have noticed.

I also need:-

• Fuel pump blanking plate and gasket
• New fuel line (I think - at least for the flexible bits and to bypass the old pump?)
• Some way to connect line to pump
• Inertia cutoff switch, wiring , fuse

Isn't that HUCO pump a bit noisy?

Maybe you need a battery isolator Jon ?

A/ Made up a blanking plate from a bit of alloy plate.
B/ & C/ Toad had 6mm nylon fuel pipe. It slipped inside 6mm (internal) rubber pipe > filter > pump.
Brief tick whilst priming then inaudible about the general Twink noise.
(I mounted it on rubber washers, I doubt it made any difference.)

[JonB]

No, I don't (need an isolator), Vince. What I need to do, as it turns out, is not forget to close the glove box door.



So to the fuelling. I got an interesting PM from prezoom who explained that, as the tank is mounted such that the top is higher than the carbs, fuel would naturally siphon into the float bowls when the tank is full enough. Should have realised. As my filler leaks like a sieve, though, I tend to run the tank 1/4 full so haven't been able to benefit from this effect.

Vince, this Summer I predict lots is going to happen in my garage. Feel free to pop on down - I'll put the kettle on.

[vincereynard]

So to the fuelling. I got an interesting PM from prezoom who explained that, as the tank is mounted such that the top is higher than the carbs, fuel would naturally siphon into the float bowls when the tank is full enough. Should have realised.

That is a surprise, who would have guessed?

Remember the +2 has a high tank and , depending on how high the fuel load is, it will drain through the pump given half a chance.
Vince

[William2]

The easiest and cheapest way to overcome the fuel loss problem in the float chambers due to evaporation is to fit a rubber primer bulb in the boot. I think quite a few Elan owners have gone down this route now and having fitted mine over 2 years ago it still works a treat. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the starter gear as well.

[RichardS]

I have fitted an electric pump but just use it to prime when the car has been standing for a while. I don?t think you need to remove the mechanical pump if you want to save a job! I initially had the manual rubber primer pump which worked fine but I found the rubber went very hard after a year or two and needed replacing.

Richard

[William2]

Hi Richard, I had heard that the primer bulbs can go hard after several years but to me at ?3 to replace it's not an issue.

[alanr]

I am wanting to do this mod on my +2S 130 and have had a look at the possible installation issues.
I have though come to the conclusion though that adding a primer pump I suspect is much easier on a baby Elan than a +2 due to having a lot easier access to the main feed pipe? I think you can access it easily in the boot on a baby Elan maybe?
I would be interested to see( pics please) to see how anyone with a +2 has done it and where/how they have located the electric or manual primer pump?

Thanks,

Alan

[RichardS]

Hi Alan, yes it is an easy job on the Elan as there is a good space at the side of the fuel tank.
Richard

[vincereynard]

I would be interested to see( pics please) to see how anyone with a +2 has done it and where/how they have located the electric or manual primer pump?
Alan

Check above image.

Jon,

I've no wish to pour cold water on your plans but, even with the elec. pump fitted does not guarantee
a first time start if I have left Toad over a week."

I recon that if you put a new set of plugs in, PP could fire up easily. Maybe it is modern plugs are less tolerant of oil? Plugs get damp over a few days? No idea why.

If I've left it a few days I spin it over to get oil pressure, give it a good squirt of "Easy Start" or similar, pump on and it fires immediately.

After all if the mechanical pump is working OK it shoudn't take many turns to fill the float chambers.

Have to disconnected the fuel pipe at the carbs and spun the engine to check the fuel supply amount?

Vince

[alanr]

Re-Image
Thanks Vince but I want to install an additional primer pump not remove or replace the existing mechanical pump.

[alan.barker]

No, I don't (need an isolator), Vince. What I need to do, as it turns out, is not forget to close the glove box door.



So to the fuelling. I got an interesting PM from prezoom who explained that, as the tank is mounted such that the top is higher than the carbs, fuel would naturally siphon into the float bowls when the tank is full enough. Should have realised. As my filler leaks like a sieve, though, I tend to run the tank 1/4 full so haven't been able to benefit from this effect.

Vince, this Summer I predict lots is going to happen in my garage. Feel free to pop on down - I'll put the kettle on.

Hi Jon, i think you do need an Isolator Switch to stop the Electric Clock in your +2 running the Battery down
Alan

[RichardHawkins]

Vince,

With respect to your comment about plugs, Dave Walker of Emerald reckons that once a plug is fouled it never recovers. Something I read recently, but can't remember where, said that current plugs are not as well glazed as older plugs, the reason being that modern engines with electronic control of ignition and fuel never foul a plug, so resistance to fouling is no longer important.

Richard Hawkins