Weber carbs
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As part of my Elan resoration, I have completely disassembled the Weber carbs in preparation for rebuild.
I have access to water/vaporblast facilities and would consider this process for returning the Weber casting to new condition. Before proceeding to clean these castings with a slurry of water and ultra fine glass beads and for those of you who have been there/done that, what are the negatives? Is there a better solution?
Thanks
I have access to water/vaporblast facilities and would consider this process for returning the Weber casting to new condition. Before proceeding to clean these castings with a slurry of water and ultra fine glass beads and for those of you who have been there/done that, what are the negatives? Is there a better solution?
Thanks
- TurbineHeli
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 24 Nov 2012
There is a position that putting any type of grit in a carb is a bad idea unless it can be completely dissolved like baking soda. You never know if you got it all out or if the grit will wear away at the aluminum body/passages. I use a Carb cleaner that NAPA sells. It's very aggressive and relatively inexpensive and comes in 1 and 5 gallon drums and lasts nearly forever. The Weber DCOE will not fit into the 1 gallon can, but you can just get a tupperware tray, just make sure you do it outside (Fumes). But after soaking overnight, it cleans the carbs really well. Just blow some compressed air through the passages and you are done. You may have to use a wire brush for those really built up oil and grime areas in the nook and cranies on the outside of the carb, but after a quick soak, it removes easily. I also use some aluminum brightener spray (also available at NAPA) for the outside, and the carbs come out looking brand new. I initially bought the gallon can, but later bought the 5 gallon drum for ease of use and once you seal the lid, it seems to last after 3 years sitting in the garage. Good luck, Allan
- gearbox
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I cleaned my Webbers as you intend.
I made plugs for every opening on the outside of the carburettor body, and had them cleaned by wet bead blasting, then removed the plugs and had them ultrasonically cleaned to remove any residue from the inside of the carburettor. I am very pleased with the appearance, but have not put them back into use yet.
As Allan said you do not want to put any more contaminant into the carburettor so you do need to be careful and thorough. I made plugs from polypropylene round bar, with a slight taper (like a laboratory rubber bung) so that I was sure the plugs were a tight fit into the openings. Every possible opening needs to be sealed.
The only carburettor cleaner I have found in the UK is an aerosol can. I think that if I had found something that worked and was available by the gallon I would have done the same as Allan.
Richard Hawkins
I made plugs for every opening on the outside of the carburettor body, and had them cleaned by wet bead blasting, then removed the plugs and had them ultrasonically cleaned to remove any residue from the inside of the carburettor. I am very pleased with the appearance, but have not put them back into use yet.
As Allan said you do not want to put any more contaminant into the carburettor so you do need to be careful and thorough. I made plugs from polypropylene round bar, with a slight taper (like a laboratory rubber bung) so that I was sure the plugs were a tight fit into the openings. Every possible opening needs to be sealed.
The only carburettor cleaner I have found in the UK is an aerosol can. I think that if I had found something that worked and was available by the gallon I would have done the same as Allan.
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Brake cleaner seems to be the universal cleaner used by tuning/engine building companies as it leaves no residue. This is available in both spray and bulk. For example:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POLYGARD-BRAK ... 2356a16293
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POLYGARD-BRAK ... 2356a16293
- stevebroad
- Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 08 Mar 2004
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