Plus 2 fuel line

[alfadave]

Before I bolt the body back on to my plus 2 lotus chassis,can anyone advise me of the correct routing/fixing of the fuel line around the diff/rear cross member.

Also the correct pipe fitting at the tank. The new fuel line I've got has an olive at the pump end,but is plain at the tank end.

Thanks in anticipation,

Dave

[PeterK]

It's a while since I replaced my original fuel line with copper, but IIRC ....

The tank connection is a banjo fitting, and the connection to the banjo was compression fitting. As it's easier to faff around in the engine bay than under the rear, I would slide the nut onto the pipe and have your olive fitting at the rear.

From the tank, sitting above the dif carrier part of the chassis, it looped down into the centre section of the chassis, passing through the provided holes from rear to front. Trim to length if/as needed to fit into the pump after body on chassis and tank connected.

Peter

[alfadave]

Peter,

thanks for your reply.

I wasn't sure the fuel line could pass over the diff carrier part of the chassis,without being trapped by the body.

I've got some 6mm copper pipe here,and may use it in lieu of the plastic fuel pipe which doesn't seem the most durable of material.

Dave

[jono]

..this is what I did (note 2 lines as going for fuel injection).

Jon

[DavidLB]

Ive got an old chassis with the fuel line still in place, would you like a picture. regarding fuel line material I would pick something that is resistant to ethanol. copper isn't I understand
Regards David

[alfadave]

David,thanks for your reply,a picture would be useful.

I've taken some dims of the chassis and body heights and it seems that the clearance under the body at the diff support cross member is approx 5/8".

I've used copper fuel pipes on other cars without a problem,but am open to more informed advice!

Dave

[rgh0]

I don't believe ethanol attacks copper. None of the data sheets I have seen say this and there are lots of 100 year old plus copper stills still making whiskey with no problems luckily!!

However copper can suffer from vibration hardening and cracking and I not would use it in any service where it sees significant vibration. It should be OK as fuel line as long as it is properly supported and does not get flexed at its end connections.

cheers
Rohan

[alfadave]

Rohan,

I've got copper brake pipes,as well as fuel pipe,and it seems to be commonly used on rebuilds?

Dave

[Plus 2]

Copper brake pipes are very common on many of our British cars and as far as i am aware good for fuel lines too. I do believe they are not allowed in Australia on the brake systems so assume some past history of work hardening due to age/vibration must be the case evidenced in accidents/failure.

Ethanol does attack some old rubbers and not good for metal fuel line pipes either.

Regards

Steve

[rgh0]

Hi Dave
Copper I guess it tends to be used more in the UK due to its corrosion resistance I think . Provided its properly mounted there should not be an issue as lots of people appear to have used it successfully like you say. Just don't have long unsupported lengths that can vibrate in use. Copper work hardens which is why vibration is an issue. Also the flares used for connection at the ends have been worked in the flaring process and are more prone to cracking if then subject to vibration

cheers
Rohan

[Plus 2]

Modern cars do use steel but it is coated for corrosion resitance and has been used too for many years.

Copper is of course much easier for DIY as it bends with less effort. As Rohan states though it should never be put in an area where vibration or connected between two points where the connections experience any movement. In these situations the copper pipe should be terminated a rubber flex pipe then connected and the copper can be then placed on a fixed point. This is pretty much how you will see all classic cars have been done in the past

As for work hardening during flaring and even age hardened copper pipe that has been stored for long periods it can and should be annealed before and after as the idea of getting a good seal with low torque is from the copper being soft and if annealed before forming guarantees no/less chance of any fracture splitting.

Engine sump copper washers chould get the same treatment before being fitted and an easy process to heat up to cherry red and depending the softness required for particular applications can be air cooled or water quenched which makes it even softer.

Regards

Steve

[DavidLB]

ill send pic in the morning
David

[DavidLB]

Hi. Here is the photo of the fuel line. the line has had the banjo tank fitting removed but is exactly as was when the body was removed. the line runs over the diff.

[DavidLB]

This one is the right way up!

[gus]

Dunno, but in the grand scheme of things, about 60 bucks in stainless braided hose and fittings will last forever. Big fan of Teflon/stainless hose. 20 years on my fuel line so far. Just protect the fiberglass where it passes through so it does not saw through