Weber carb rebuild

PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:43 am

If no significant side movement or air leakage then I would leave the spindle and bearings alone otherwise replace them or at least lubricate the bearings and the leather seals

cheers
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PostPost by: oldchieft » Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:56 am

If you have brass spindles then leave alone, or have a good range of plans to get them out.

Soaking in solvent, soft hammers, a bit of heat from a propane torch, and don't use the spindle to drift the second bearing out find a rod of the right size.

The new steel spindles are not counter sunk, so you will need the cheese headed screws or need to make or buy a 60 degree counter bore.

And you will need to drill the shaft for the pump lever.

See: -
lotus-carbs-f40/throttle-shafts-not-countersunk-t32265.html

If you have steel shafts then you have a better chance to get them out without damage,

The sealed bearings are a fit and forget solution.

So if they are steel shafts i would have a go, if the are brass be prepared to have to spend some money and do some work.

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PostPost by: batfish » Mon Apr 27, 2015 1:39 pm

Due to wear on the original spindle of an Italian made Weber 45 I bought a new spindle from a well known and respected Weber part suppliers.?29 for the spindle
I had a machine shop drill the hole for the roll pin for ?45 but then found out that the spindle is slightly too small in diameter resulting in the bearing being loose on the spindle.
I spoke to the company I bought the spindle from who in turn contacted the Weber importers. The reply was that they are all like that, they are official Weber parts and therefore must be to specification.
They suggested using bearing retainer.
Not what you would expect to have to do to new items especially as the only reason I changed the spindle was because the original was worn.

Andy
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Mon Apr 27, 2015 2:49 pm

I guess the question is whether the wear was on the old spindle or on the carb body or a bit on each. :?
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PostPost by: batfish » Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:04 pm

The bearing should be a press fit onto the spindle and then a press fit into the carb body. The new replacement spindle is too small an outer diameter for the internal diameter of the bearing resulting in a loose bearing.
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PostPost by: oldchieft » Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:12 pm

The bearings I got were a easy fit on the spindles, but I reckon that is OK as the springs and retainer cups hold the outer part of the bearing into the recess.

If everything was a tight fit you might have problems with the casing expanding and the spindles binding when hot.

I reckoned if the float is not built in there might be other issues.

Mine seem ok after rebuild, but I have not ha a long run yet.

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PostPost by: batfish » Wed Apr 29, 2015 7:27 am

In order for the bearing to work properly it should be a tight fit on both the spindle and in the carb housing. If the spindle is loose within the bearing it will turn without turning the bearing and if the bearing is loose within the carb body the whole bearing will turn within the carb body.

regards

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PostPost by: oldchieft » Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:21 pm

Sounds like you have need of a bearing fit retainer, I use LOCTITE 601

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PostPost by: batfish » Thu Apr 30, 2015 8:57 am

I have the Loctite bearing retainer, my gripe with Weber is that the new spindle has a smaller diameter than the old worn spindle and therefore it has been a waste of time and money buying a new spindle and having the roll pin hole drilled.

regards

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PostPost by: potleyu18 » Mon May 04, 2015 4:58 pm

Just had my Dellorto's rebuilt by Paul Hollidge who did an exceptional job and including a new set of jets the bill was ?280

http://www.weber-carbs.co.uk
[email protected]
20150421_171505.jpg and
After the re furb


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PostPost by: l10tus » Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:03 pm

Steve,

Did you ask for a refund, that's a scary price !
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